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I think someone just retrofitted one of these here on the forum. I will snoop around to see if I can remember where I saw it. Edit: Nope, I was confused. It was the lighter weight HMMWV trailer that was swapped over. These power plant trailers have a real high tongue on them.

A few have gone off at auction, so whomever bought them turned right around and put them up on ebay then.

If you use 1/4" hardware cloth on the two side intakes, as well as the large cutout under the engine... you are already better off. To bulletproof the machine from a rodent standpoint, also consider removing the soft sleeve where the wires enter the machine and replace with a plate or some sort...

Are the posts marked?

803s purr along, if they complain its because they have nothing better to do, not because its loud.

Is this for an MEP-813A (400hz, 4 cylinder 10kw) or an MEP-831A (60hz, 1 cylinder 3KW)?

I've got a guy who moves vehicles and other equipment for me. He is based in western PA and is bringing a load up this week. Direct message me to discuss further.

I had one of these on a set years ago, and it walked itself loose and caused some bad juju on the DC side with the intermittent voltage. Blew out the EMI filters on the pumps. I would not personally run this setup, but many do with success.

Should be a stow point for the front leg.

Same idea, better price. Did you have to fab up a mounting bracket or did it come with one?

I don't know if there is truth to that, but being that air cooled is older technology... the thinking could be that with manufacturing practices advancing greatly since 'air cooled' was the mainstay, that naturally the equipment should last longer. But a properly designed air cooled system...

I just used up my last ammeter in my parts stock, so I might reach out to that Korean firm to see if there is anything better that can be done on the price (freight is almost twice what the purchase price is). Thanks Guy.

Oshkosh seemingly has a used unit in stock too https://www.oshkoshequipment.com/products/detail/91/890/Battery-Charge-DC-Ammeter-Gauge

How much work do you want to put in? How about something like this mounted remotely (like up front near the hertz adjustment)? https://www.autozone.com/ignition/kill-switch/battery-doctor-disconnect-switch-with-lock-out-kill-switch/558399_0_0

No, these assemblies compress and push fuel upwards. You need to soak these things a few days (dont be in a rush) and see what they do.

I don't know who you paid to look at these pumps... but it doesnt sound like they did much of anything for you. Take them out of the machine, and let them sit in a bucket of carb cleaner for a couple days. Take them out after, and bench test them (compress them to see if you get fuel pumping out...

How easily do the pumps rotate in your hand? Can you rotate the inlet barb with ease?

If the rack isnt moving when you are putting it back in, its not in the rack. Its really not a big deal if you take all 4 pumps out, to get them back in the rack. It just takes a little trick to know what you are feeling for on the rack (a small locator, which you can see on the TMs that would...

Is yours missing, or have you tested it to be nonfunctional?

You will want to run a 3+1 properly sized wire. Two hots, Neutral, and appropriately sized Ground. As this is going to your panel, you will tie to the home ground, not a discrete one at the machine (so no ground rod either). You would only drive a ground and keep the grounding bar (vertical item...