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I got a complete assembly from Hillbillywizard, try sending him a PM.

I once had the "magic smoke" leave an alternator when hooking battery cable back up after having alt apart..the rectifier blew.

TGTBT..Hows this, 2 years ago while inquiring about a new set of injectors I was informed of a classified ad for new OEM injectors (complete body) for sale by member Road warrior 88. With shipping $135.

I don't recall ever reading here that anyone had an issue with an aftermarket water pump. So I also went with the Cardone.

Why not install an original direct drive 27MT. Very well engineered, rugged, durable and dependable. In 10 years and thousands of starts I have never experienced a no-start condition.

A while ago I bought a brand new OEM wiper/washer assy from CUCV parts supplier on E-Bay. It was $117. Mine was starting to squeak and the pump no longer worked.

There is no 75 amp fuse in the fuse-box. Perhaps you meant 7.5. Even then there's no 7.5 called for. Which one is it that blew?

I disagree with this assertation. I've had my M1009 for 10 years, rebuilt the direct drive 27MT twice now. Never had a problem with bolts, mounting or any aspect of its operation. It was engineered for this application, I like how its built so heavy duty. This from another member ;The CUCV 27MT...

Never had to locktite my starter bolts. Buy a set of AC Delco starter bolts #15544950, find them cheap on-line.

I agree, they suck. AC60G's are the way to go, although some like the Bosch Duratherms.

If it is leaking. Verify that it is indeed coming from the weep hole at the bottom of the pump shaft, and not one of the lower pump bolts. They go through to the water jacket and require sealant.

I personally don't think a 12V conversion is a good idea. I like to have 24V to spin the starter. The 6.2 has 21.5 compression ratio. When it gets really cold in the winter, the batteries are noticeably affected. Likely I wouldn't get the motor to fire on only 12V. The starter must spin 200 rpm...

I also use never-seize. In 2004 when I got the M1009, it had AC11's in it. After some research, bought AC60's, went to change them out, one was swollen and would not come out. What happens is that you can completely unscrew the threaded portion of the plug from the head, once fully unscrewed it...

Sounds unnecessarily excessive. I get 4-6 years out of my AC60's, daily driven. Change them individually when one goes bad. Easy to tell; when engine sounds rough at start-up, look for the side where exhaust is smoking. Test plugs on that side. Replace defective plug.

If that's a direct drive 27MT. #7-920 $32.50 http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/starter_solenoids.asp

Your google-fu is weak. PM sent.

My main battery cable was in pretty poor shape, badly corroded clamp bolt threads and had some previous arcing/melting issues. Its the one that goes from front battery positive to rear battery negative, then runs along back of firewall and ends in a blue fusible link at the 12 V junction block...

The bolt broke with 33 ft/lbs? Even a low grade bolt should handle that, perhaps it was the wrong pitch or there was something wring with the threads in the block. I also just use a small ratchet and tighten it by hand.

Check the water level in the battery cells.

My 1009 runs 33's, speed is off 4 km/h, that's 2.5 mph. Going by all the photo radar readout panels around town. I lube my speedo cable twice a year to prevent the dreaded needle bounce syndrome. I've never taken all that off. Lie underneath dash and reach up, grab speedo cable, run hand to end...