Search results

Yup, they are rated for outdoor use. There is a thick rubber gasket under the lid of the 6x6 box. I do plan on putting a bead of clear silicone around the box to prevent water from seeping behind it and into the generator.

Working on getting the -803 wired in to the house today. First photo shows the 6x6" PVC box covering the cable outlet on the MEP. The second photo shows the 60amp interlocked transfer switch on the left, and the sub-panel on the right where the vital loads are powered from. The metal-flex into...

Ahh gotcha.

I take it you rehab and sell generators for a living/side business?

Can't you look up the NSN in your TM and then google that number? It's worked for me in the past.

What are you guys paying for these at auction if you don't mind sharing? Thanks.

So $400 later, I bought the sub-panel, breakers, wiring, liquid tight conduit, flex metal conduit, etc. I also spent the morning mapping out all the circuits in the service panel as there have been a lot of changes since we finished up a huge addition to the house last year. I now have...

Your English is light years ahead of my Spanish. The more knowledgeable folks (not me) on this site should have you fixed up soon.

I hear you about the camera's. I have been talking to my system integrator about adding cam's and a DVR to my Control4 system. Gotta wait until after the holidays to spend that kind of coin though.

Trailer is in much better shape now than what you started with. Nice job. I had thought about getting a trailer to make mine portable, but here in New England I just figure that would make it easier to get stolen. I am planning on driving some Hilti's into the concrete pad and bolting that...

The info I posted is for the -803a. It appears the -802a uses the same heater, but has a different NSN (6115-01-476-8973) and a different Army TB (TB 9-6115-641-13).

From what I can find in my limited research capacity at work, it is an Espar D5W heater 24V version.

I will see what I can find for you Chris, won't be till tomorrow as I am working till 6 tonight. I listed the manual above, and the cover sheet gives NSN 6115-01-477-0564 for the entire unit if that helps in the meantime.

That's why I asked. My -803A came with the Arctic Heater Mod - tested it out and that thing will get the coolant up to temp in less than 15 minutes. It sips a miserly 0.06 gal/hr in high heat mode, but also draws 1.8 amps/hr, so some sort of permanent battery charger would be warranted...

Just keep in mind that a pure resistive load such as your heater elements have a power factor (pf) of 1.0. Your percent output meter is calibrated for a pf of 0.8 and so the meter will indicate lower than actual output when at load. Best to use your clamp-amp meter to determine loading.

Ahh, I was thinking the -804 was a 12 wire head like the -004 and could be configured for low zigzag mode. Oh well, it was an interesting thought. Thanks for for the feedback.

Your normal coolant temp should be just above the 180 degrees F mark on the gauge. Good luck on what's causing your overvoltage.

For those of you that have been using these digital gauges for awhile, how is their long-term viability?

No one?

I recently removed the tank from my -803 to replace a leaky drain valve. Zarathustra is correct in that you have to remove the radiator and all sheet metal above the tank. Complete PITA.