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I work with this equipment every day. You do have several settings depending on the machine. Front steer only Rear Steer only Crab Crawl........both front and rear move in the same direction Tight Radius.......both front and rear move in the opposit directions Also, some machines only work...

Your clearance issues will all depend on your wheels. The more back spacing, the more clearance to the frame. I'm running 6" of back spacing on 12" wide wheels with the 52" tires, and have good clearance.

I remember that e-Bay truck..........I was looking at buying an M-37, but fell in love with the bobbed M-35. We fell in love with the same S.L.U.T. (Short Length Utility Truck)

:funny: rofl

I think it's a cool idea. Go for it! I almost did one myself, but found a `59 REO to bob instead.

I would love to, but I'm really under the gun right now with work. What kind of time frame are you looking at? If you don't need them right away I could make the time after I'm done with a few issues at work. I would need a few measurements from you, so we get a perfect fit.

No, I'm sorry I haven't. I know I promised you guys I would, so I will.

Your not being argumentative, your just misinformed. Take the 4.11 gear ratio that every one seems to love in their older 4x4's. You will find that a "set" for the front and rear willl be 4.10 & 4.11. It's not a large difference, but it is there.

Got the motor installed last night. Of course it is just temporary. But, this lets me see how everything lines up.

One other thing that has not been mentioned. Today's modern 4x4's use a different gear set for the front and rear differential. The front axle uses a faster (numerically smaller) gear set to "pull." This aids in steering. If you had a faster gear in the back you would be "pushing" the front...

Jinx, Hub lock outs and differential lockers are two different things. The hub lock outs give you the option of manually connecting or disconnecting the front drive axle shafts to or from the wheel hubs. So, while you are unlocked the front end provides no power, and only free wheels like the...

Working for a living really makes it hard to work on the truck !! I've finally found enough time to fabricate & install the motor mounts for the 5.9 Cummins transplant. Here are some pictures.

:funny:rofl:doh:

I'm putting together a Cummins 5.9 24v with a NV4500

Mudguppy is 100% correct. If you look at the cut angles of the ring gear the "front" side is is cut square while the "back" side is cut at an more of an angle. The angle cut on the rear acts as a gusset to support and strenghten the running side. Running the gear in reverse, because of the...

"There is NO way I would drive to Michigan....even if they were free. :wink: I am not one of those crazy Ohio guys.... " WHAT'S WRONG WITH US "OHIO GUYS?"

I'm currently doing a 5.9 Cummins swap for several reasons: Availability of OEM parts Availability of aftermarket parts massive R & D on aftermarket upgrades Excellent design, strength, and reliablity of "short block" in the stock form Easy to increase HP & Torque externally with no internal...

thank you much for the assistance my northern brother! LOL I've already pulled the motor, and didn't know anything about "flashing" the ecm. I did keep all of the wiring harness together, and I do plan on keeping and many of the electronics as i can. i.e. dash cluster and fuel pump/unit.

Wrap a rag around your head also. You will get sand all over in your hair, your ears, and down your collar by the ton. I use a sheet of plywood with 2x4's on edge around the edges for doing small parts. This way I can shovel up the sand and reuse it over and over.

I've thought about the frame flex issue. I think the answer would be to hard pipe the exhaust stack to the bed, but then add about 2' of flex between the bed and the engine. This would allow the motor to flex and the bed and frame to flex with out putting a strain on having hard pipe run from...