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I took the bed off one last time to install a gooseneck hitch. It's a bolt-in hitch but I also welded it in as well. I put in a new filler neck setup as well. I'll take some pics of the finished product tomorrow.
Trac-Loks work well with fresh cluth packs and stock tires. But when you go to bigger tires, or more horsepower . . . or both, you're asking a lot from a limited slip. Many years ago I had a Dodge with a Trac-Lok in the front and 35's and it would "3-wheel" (meaing only one front tire would...
I've always liked the simplicity and reliability of a Detroit . . . that's what I'm running in the front of mine. As long as you don't lock both hubs and try to drive it on dry pavement you'll be OK.
I have to do some work on the filler neck and tail lights, and I only have 4 bolts holding it on for now but it's on. It looks better than I thought it would. It sits a little high in the rear but hopefully it will settle a little after I put a load or two in it.
I got the NOS harness in this week. When I unpacked it I noticed that it didn't have the weatherpack connectors for the trailer connector, so that was a bust! So I spent some time tracing the harness and found that there were actually 2 harnesses . . . the one that was connected went to the...
I installed a manual glow plug switch (momentary) and an orange LED today based on this thread . . . http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/59375-manual-glow-plug-install.html . Works great and it filled the hole in the dash left by the PTO.
I suspect this connector might be part of the problem. When I plug it in though I lose my tail lights. Like i said, I'm just going to have to spend some time tracing everything down and cleaning it up.
I wanted to get a 7-pin trailer plug installed before putting the bed back on. I made a plug today using this as reference . . . http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/38418-civi-trailer-wiring-made-easy.html. Unfortunately though, something is wrong with the wiring to the plug. I didn't have a lot...
I'm not sure if I mentioned this already but I got the front driveshaft back in too. I had a 1350 yoke put on it which lengthened enough so I didn't need to have the shaft lengthened. But, with 5" of lift the CV was too close for comfort.
I'm going to use the stock rear battery tray as the "base" for the Optima dual battery mount. I had to trim the front lip and cut the tabs off the Ballistic battery box, then I welded it in (didn't get a chance to take pics after I welded it as it was getting too dark outside). I'll post some...
The new shifter boot for the twin sticks was narrower than the stock boot. So, I made a filler panel for the stock trim ring and welded it in, then went on top of that with the new boot and stainless steel trim ring.
Good advice and all things being equal I would have gone with the Odyssey's . . . BUT, I got a REALLY good deal on two yellow tops and I ordered a dual battery mount for them. I stuck them in tonight and she fired right up.