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These vehicles are always a project. Congratulations, I'm glad you are back in business. We all learn a lot from what happens to each and everyone of us. It's a great community of people looking out for one another. I too have been on the receiving end.

Thanks. After posting I found out that the compressor should come pre-charged with the correct amount of oil. It may say on the compressor how much this is. It is usually a small amount, e.g., 300 cc. If the system is evacuated for service then some or most of the oil would have come out...

For those of you who are building your A/C systems or maintaining an existing one, does anyone have any information or reference to adding A/C compressor oil into the system before it is charged. I recall that when I put in a new condenser in my Toyota Land Cruiser I had to add a small amount...

Hello from Indiana. Originally from Oshkosh. Go Packers!

Happy to hear that you're up and running. I am seriously thinking of driving my 1078 to AK this summer. I would be very interested in hearing more about your travels and tips you might have for those who follow in your footsteps. Especially your experience with Canadian border patrol with your MV.

In tools/driveshaft removal change the 5/16" deep well socket to 8mm deep well size. I checked it and removed and reinserted each one with 8mm. It was a mistake on my part.

Thanks for the great update and all the parts details. You are inspirational!

UPDATE: Superman, you are correct re: fan clutch locking, however, since there is no bolt/nut to grab on to you cannot turn the engine over from the front of the fan; I checked that today. However, I did discover that you actually can turn over the engine over by grabbing the alternator pulley...

I can't seem to find the information I need to work through the valve lash adjustment on my C7 CAT engine. From internet searches I have done, the procedure may be similar, if not the same, for the 3126 or perhaps earlier models in the FMTV class. I have the adjustment sequence and the specs...

8mm deep well socket specifically to pull the grease zerks from the U-joints prior to removal. If you don't you'll break them off. NOTE: I used a 1/4" drive deep well socket which allowed sufficient access to the individual zerks. There is not much contact surface for the socket to grab on to...

Nice!

Nice setup, but I'm in suspense, do you have a reading or does that come after the troubleshooting.

I don't want to discredit what was done in the recovery or hijack the thread, because it apparently worked out well, however, based on the comment above I did a quick search and found the following documenting a failure of said bar on this site...

Thanks for your replies, thats and awesome looking tow bar. Where can one get their hands on such a nice piece of equipment?

Dan, how were you hooked up to the 5 ton, tow bar or? Did you cage the breaks so you could pull it? Thx

Can you elaborate on what sort of "U-joint puller" you used. Thanks

You could. I was just copying what is in the TM. It takes so little oil to drain and refill. I just did mine last weekend.

11-13 oz (0.33-0.38 liter) in the front hubs. Position fill port at 4 o'clock position. If oil flows from fill port when plug is loosened, let it drain to correct level. If oil is below fill port, fill hub with recommended fluid. Six o'clock to drain, 12 o'clock to fill.

I changed both the alternator and the A/C belts recently and did not have to pull the fan. I had to undo the air line to the fan clutch to slip the belt over the fan though. The A/C belt was a tight fit and I had to loosen up the compressor bracket to get the belt on. Overall it was relatively...

Will, re: your comment on safety, can you turn off the main battery disconnect and discharge the capacitors and get in there and work on the starter/solenoids safely?