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If you need a valve and/or a spring I have both if you need it. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

I needed to fabricate brackets for the armoured double headlights I recently converted to all LED. While the single lights are ok to mount, there simply is not a good spot for the big, heavy double lights. After doing what the signature of one of the members here suggests ("every repair job...

If it was my truck I would probably do two things before I rip the airpack out: - drain all air pressure, remove the splash shield and add air tool oil to the big chamber; in the usually recommended location (small 1/8 hex plug; see black arrow in this thread...

Now your friend needs to decide if he wants to spend $90 and a half day or $500 and an hour. Rebuild kit and doing the overhaul vs. installing new air pack. Tactical Repair on YouTube has two real-time videos on how to do the rebuild. Other than a bit of time it is really not that bad...

Not in the 2.5ton. Master is not being bled and airpack has one bleeder valve.

m715mike opens another can of woms - and we do not know because we do not know your friend and how much clue he has when it comes to brake systems or the M35. The brakes could be far out of adjustment and simply not generate enough friction to brake well. The linings could be contaminated. The...

Lack of air assist but brakes working would point to the air pack not doing its job. It can be rebuilt or replaced. Brakes not working could also be a bad master cylinder. Especially for people not very familiar with the trucks I recommend downloading, reading and following the Technical...

Good grief, there is no rust on that thing! Even the windshield frames look pristine!

Two Canadian built M35 (Medium Logistics Vehicle, Wheeled - MLVW) daydreaming of better days. Junkyard close to me.

Looks like you are taking your time to check things over before going for the smoke and noise. It is always exciting to wake up a long dormant engine. Glad it seems to work out so well!

Installed the low air pressure warning light that I have had on the shelf for some 5 years. Now I have a bright red light to accompany the noisy buzzer. Not sure why the generator light is in the yellow...was in the green when I came home.

I had a similar issue but it was intermittent and resolved with a filter change....after I had changed the filters not too long before and thought "nah, that ain't the problem!". It sure was. I got a bad batch of fuel somewhere. I second the advice to take the troubleshooting TM and go through...

I think the NAPA/aftermarket switches are intended for lower max hydraulic pressures and have been known to fracture; the stock switches on the other hand seem to do that as well. I remember reading a thread about this a few years back. The military started changing them out for air side...

Not sure why yours would be 3 prong but the 7 pin Male plug that the flasher box has (and yes, you do not use all of the contacts) is made by Amphenol and has the manufacturer number of MS3102E16-10P. I ordered mine from Mouser Electronics but I am sure there are other sources. Sent from my...

No, do not do that without at the very least addressing the diesel fuel getting into the oil (hence the huge volume you drained). You need to - bypass the FDC - change the O-rings sealing the hydraulic head and shutoff - check or eliminate the flame heater - check/change booster pump seals If...

I looked and the first that came up was $60....Eastern....

From the TM....this is was I was thinking for the curved tube. It has two 90 degree bends in it, one downwards and one to the right, the opening pointing to the passenger side. Maybe the pipe came loose from the brackets and was whacked by the rotating crankshaft? The fractured part would be...

So, your engine is "making oil". That is one thing to address, through changing some important o rings. Diluted engine oil causes leaks. The broken part...I was staring at it and it vaguely looks like a piece of oil pickup tube. You'd see that on the bottom end more or less straight away with...

I know that a lot of people work hard to pull the runflat inserts OUT of their tires to remove rotating mass and make it easier on the brakes (and to lift the tire, no doubt). I am just curious what the rationale is to actually use the runflats? Avoiding need to carry a spare?

I push grease in until old grease comes out except for the king pin bushings (a few good pumps) and the trunnions (I have zerks in the caps; a few good pumps but I do not want to blow out the seal facing to the center of the truck). Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk