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Chris, the IP TM says those safety wired screws are supposed to be 18 inch pounds. That had it binding last week so I just backed them off to where it was moving free then wired them in place. Same yesterday except I didn’t even try torquing. I just went by feel. Kind of like setting wheel...

I took the cover off and had only oil in there. That for sure was where I was getting the fuel from before the O-Ring swap. Then I pulled the the clip off the control rod and removed the plunger after clipping the safety wire off again. Every thing looked correct. Just because I put a screw...

I took mine apart 8 years ago to try and refresh them. A pop tester is really needed after you take them apart to verify they are good. Buying new Bosch injectors is almost cheaper and easier in the long run.

Let me go over what we did. I have a spare IP of unknown condition. I also handed Gimpy tools 5 years ago as he did a HH replacement on Rich’s truck in my driveway. That was my training besides reading about it. So, I lined up the red tooth on the spare IP and removed the HH to practice. It...

Timing as in we put the HH back on a tooth off?

Yes, lines are on the correct way. I double checked that thinking the same thing. Cracked the lines open at the injectors with it running today. I didn’t think it needed to be done. But did it anyway. Each line cracked caused a drop in rpm. All starts the first day required a shot of ether...

I have been blazing through some repairs to the Whistler the last 3-1/2 years. It started making oil in May of 2015. It sat for a while, the wiring rotted off so I couldn’t get power to the intank pump to check the boost pump seal. Then we had a hurricane. Life got in the way and such. It now...

Positive deals only here as well.

Thanks for the info Ken. The newest 6.2 I have is a 1988 and the oldest 6.5 is a 1993. Nice to learn something new.

There have been a good number of people posting like you have about how they want to try this. Then someone will post about how the side metal of the truck was not designed to support a swing out tire carrier like the Bronco's had. There are pictures out there of the passenger rear of a...

The picture in post 5 showing how to put a T on the oil psi sender unit. Also shows another pressure supply port. The upper most of the holes above the oil filter has a plug in it on your block. A square 1/4" tool is needed to remove it. A 1/4" socket extension might almost get it out but...

The -20 manual for the CUCV has a great 74 page electrical troubleshooting section. The very first thing it says for any electrical issue is to load test your batteries and make sure they are charged. Please do that first because everything else is dependent on them being good. You wrote that...

The -20P and -30P manuals have the GM part number for every component on the vehicle. However, for the brake light bulb and the front blinker bulb. 1157 is the number of the bulb. All single filament bulbs are 1156 and dual filament bulbs are 1157. The front ones will have letters after...

I forgot about the outside braces Keith. The trucks are very well set up.

The CUCV truck pintle is mounted to a very thik step bumper which has 6 bolts on each side holding it to the frame rails. Then there are a pair of angled pieces that bolt to the pintle and have 2 bolts each holding them to the frame. Very sturdy and well thought out. The M1009 is pretty much...

Rory said it all about the M1009. Chevy rated the K5 Blazer with a frame mounted hitch at 5,000 pound trailer pulling with a 500 pound tongue weight.

A few months and a few more things learned. I have another 600 or so miles of pulling a loaded trailer now. As mentioned above, the steering shaft and steering box swap really helped. It was still kind of iffy feeling at times though with the loaded trailer. I know the 4x4 3/4 ton Suburban's...

My M1009 was getting around 5000 a year for a few years until I started driving the Cowdog. My son was using his M1009 for around 8k a year until he went to college.

Several different things here. The truck is a 12 volt truck. Only part of the starting system and part of the glow plug system get 24 volts. Plus the slave cable wiring and how the passenger side alternator ties in is it for 24 volts. The resistor on the firewall is where 24 volts is stepped...

You need the 1964 TM. It covers both engines. There is also a TM from 1951 that is a single book which is basically an all in one for the Gasser trucks.