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WOW, looks really good, great work!!

I have them on my MRAP, FMTV, and HEMTT wheels...they work just fine with about 1/2" of the end sticking out of the FMTV & MRAP wheels; the HEMTT wheels the turret valves are almost flush with the outside face of the wheel, but the opening in the wheel is large enough to reach in & remove the...

I use Haltec J-690 Large-Bore Turret Valves; work PERFECT for MRAP, FMTV, and HEMTT wheels: http://yourtireshopsupply.com/product/677/wh330j690-large-bore-turret-valve-hawh330j690 These folks have great prices & great service; I go to them for all of my Haltec needs. If they don't have it, I...

I made some errors in my previous posting #10; these have been corrected. I also posted some photos from my Crackberry phone of the starter & solenoid to explain where all the wires go.

No THANK YOU for the photos! Seeing is much easier than trying to decipher written instructions. But together I think we pretty much nailed it down. Great pics!

Yes, it is a 10si one-wire 12-volt alternator, and I replaced the stock 24-volt alternator with an aftermarket 27si 24-volt alternator. I used TM America's alternator bracket kit to mount both of them, and obtained drive belts from NAPA. I ran 2/0-gauge wires to a winch connector plug at the...

If I've missed anything or am incorrect, please let me know. Hope this helps.

Connect the other Plug #2 to the positive voltage output on your alternator, and plug #1 to the alternator switch wire (if you still use the stock Deuce alternator). On the passenger-side headlight, while looking at the back of the headlight housing, plug #17 will mount to the top left...

Now on my Deuce, my starter solenoid might differ from yours. The starter solenoid resides on top of the starter itself, they are bolted together. Look at the front of the solenoid: mine has 3 large stud bosses, 2 facing forward (horizontal) & one that is in the middle facing...

Get underneath your truck, and you should see a branch still dangling down that has a couple of plugs and a large metal connector assembly. The two #75 plugs should go to your brake light switch on your Airpack, and you'll need to thread the large metal plug through the crossmembers to connect...

Now we can start tracking the installation of the harness outside of the cab. On the firewall, find plugs #25 & #10; plug these into one of the circuit breakers mounted on the cab firewall (see the first photo posted by M35A2-AZ above). **NOTE: My truck only had one circuit breaker, the...

Now let's finish connecting everything inside the cab, all that's left should be on the left side of the steering column. Accessory Switch: I installed a new switch, and it's nice to have a positive locking engagement when turning this switch off & on, instead of having it loosely flop around...

Inside the cab, run the strand that has wire plugs #40, 17, 27, 28, 33, 36, and the two 2-pin plugs on top of the metal cab brace that resides above the steering column; these will go to the gauge cluster & other switches, as delineated below. #85: Low air pressure buzzer #27A, 27A: Front drive...

I'm in the process of replacing the front wiring harness, and I took notes (and drew pics, but only I can interpret my chicken-scratching :-D). Start with the first photo posted by M35A2-AZ above: where the wiring harness goes into the cab, find the cab-related portion and feed it through the...

This is exactly what I did for my 12K-lb winch; works great! Pulled up both G506 trucks onto my trailer no problem.

Congrats! Glad you were able to resolve a lot of little issues that added up to a large headache! Thanks for sharing, glad you didn't have to spend a lot of money on parts-changing.

Keep up the good work; you'll be done before you know it & turning heads all over when you drive by.

The hardest part, well I should say the most labor-intensive part, of the whole ordeal is blocking up the axles & suspension trunnion, and then removing all the nuts & torque rods from the truck. Once the torque rod is off, that's the easy part! And I'm serious. To ensure that I had the...

Thanks G, good advice there & I remember consulting that thread before I did mine. I used a bearing cup that fit perfectly around the outside edges of the bushing, and it scooted right out in a few seconds each time...it also made seating the new ones a breeze (with a little anti-sieze inside...

Not difficult, but tedious. I also used a 20-ton shop press with no problems. Make sure you have at least a 3/4"-drive ratchet, breaker-bar & socket set, 1-inch would be better. I found it necessary to remove the driver's side spring pack to access the upper torque rod ends, and it gave me a...