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Congrats on your new toy! DH I sure like your crane truck...

AWESOME, looks beautiful there!

Figures that new ones would come out now, I just replaced all 12 of mine last summer....I'll have to wait another 19 years to replace them then (dry rot from the desert).

IIRC, when I was recently troubleshooting my Deuce's air system, the TM said that to increase the air pressure the small screw should be adjusted outwards. But I also recall the TM saying that for pressures as low as yours, to replace the air governor. I bought mine new at NAPA for $11. I...

Any commercial vehicle falling under Motor Carrier authority is held to a much different standard. One issue I had was a 1968 semi van trailer that didn't have the reflective strips anywhere on it, and the GVW data plate had been painted over. I found a new data plate at a truck dealership...

Because the Feds require state DMVs & DOTs to enforce the FMVSS for them; I've been through this with my state's DMV. There's a simple solution, it involves having a plate made that simply states that the vehicles complies with all federal motor vehicle safety standards at the time it was...

I have to agree with instag8tr...I don't have a CDL but I do have a non-commercial Class A with Air Brakes. With these DLs, you reach a whole new stage of vehicle condition awareness, especially knowing that while going through weigh stations/inspection points/ports of entry, the Motor Carrier...

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Thanks fellas! I hope this helps, I just did several of these so I had one to use as a model for proper orientation/order. I just completed my edits, so I hope that the information is complete and accurate...if not, please let me know.

This is where I need your help: for the life of me, I am always left with this O-ring and I have no idea where it goes...I've done several of these now, and can't find where this darn O-ring goes.

Remember this orientation/layout carefully! When reinstalling, the new small spring goes in first, then the 4-prong small flat cap, followed by the air slave piston and snap ring. During this step, be careful with the O-ring on the air slave piston; I found that when I had to slightly pull...

Now we can dig into the air slave cylinder housing. Remove the 3 bolts holding the air slave cylinder housing to the body, but BE CAREFUL to not hold the air slave cylinder housing vertical when you remove it...otherwise the upper piston & spring may take off running on you. You should be able...

To remove the end piston, you will need to use roll-pin punch & drive-pin tools. Rest the pushrod against a block of wood or other soft item while you drive the roll pin out & back in, so that you don't mar the pushrod. Once the end piston is removed, there is a small end-cap...

Turning our attention to the body, let's remove the pushrod assembly. It is held in place with a snap ring (a replacement should be contained in your rebuild kit); using your trusty snap-ring pliers, remove this snap ring and discard it. Pull the pushrod assembly out of the body, and be...

Remove the J-pipe; it is only threaded at one end, the other end (that goes into the air slave cylinder housing) is a friction fit, with a small O-ring on the end of the J-pipe that will be replaced by one from your rebuild kit. Once the J-pipe is out, remove the 6 bolts holding the large can...

Since the TMs show where these new-style, short Airpacks are located and how to remove them, I'm only going to focus on what the TMs and other printed literature don't cover. I've searched high and low but haven't been able to come up with any kind of drawing, schematic, or instructions for...

I did notice on the 2 trucks I have with this new-style Airpack, the air lines as they exist in stock form are almost impossible to get crossed up...of the 2 air lines with similar-size fittings, one is a fine-threaded compression fitting and the other is a coarse-thread flared fitting. The...

AH-HA! I FOUND OUT THE PROBLEM! I reversed the installation order of the air slave housing components. When I disassembled this one, like a dummy I was holding the housing too vertical to get the blue-anodized air slave piston out of the housing (held in with O-ring friction); when it came...

Here is the air slave housing as I disassembled it. I used everything from the TNJ Murray rebuild kit except for one O-ring; I couldn't find where it went. I replaced one item at a time, lubing O-rings & seals in silicone grease (NAPA Sil-Glyde, good stuff). No rust nor signs of corrosion...

I removed the piston rod from the housing and disassembled it. The black cup on the left side of the piston rod was held in with a roll pin; I have roll pin removers but since I didn't see anything inside of it that looked like needed attention, I left it alone. I tried to use these...