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Clinto, this was a very insightful post that I just read twice. Wise words. Thanks for posting. In a way, it totally ties into what the guys from FMTVTRUCKS https://fmtvtrucks.com/ that also build the Acela trucks are saying in their FAQ. Why buy a truck for $$$ from them, when you can pick up...

Yup, air tool oil will make the O-rings swell and the motor locks up....done that.

Plastic or metal wiper motor? They can be opened. Sometimes a swollen O-ring causes them to stick. You can spray a little silicone lubricant into the air intake port and run the motor and see if that gets it going. A long time ago I made a writeup when I fixed mine...

I think that this is an unbelievably good price, sir, given that it includes NEW tires, rims, adapters and the hub/axle job. You did very well IMHO.

The open diffs have a very specific vulnerability. See the picture, courtesy of Torquewrench. When you get all three wheels (or two wheels, in your case) on one side spinning, it's game over. This is where lockers make the difference. I think that it really depends on your budget. If you do...

Regular plumbing crush sleeves from the hardware store work for me, using DOT air line; the sleeve needs to be held flat to the bench grinder for a second on either side because otherwise the sleeve is a tad to wide for the threads of the nut to engage. As for the IP oil lines: I took the old...

PICS!! Also, after being experienced with the A2s, what made you decide you want an A3? As for the original tires, please be careful; there are several posts here of blowouts of re-inflated tires that had sat collapsed for a while. Internal damage/broken cords.

So weird...I was thinking of this just today and wanted to look up the info...and here is a brand new thread with pictures! SS mind reading at work!

That is a good find. You could, of course, also go the modern gear reduction starter route: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?78375-Replacing-my-starter-with-a-gear-reduction-style 39MT or 42MT starter, 24V, 12 teeth

Swollen rubber brake hose to the rear axle that makes an inside "valve" that closes off, or your brake cylinders work but the brakes are out of adjustment are two things that come to mind.

I like that removal option with the same tool!

Hopefully, about 5-6 QUARTS in each of the diffs and 3-4 in the trans and transfer case

You'd need to call them/e-mail them but I'd say the kit contains the standard axle tube seals.

Went to Kublo's Surplus in Brackney, PA and gawked at Oshkoshes and hordes of other trucks grazing in the field. They were whispering "Pick me! Pick me!". What a nice bunch of people there. I made off with a driver's door and some assorted small stuff. Didn't have a pocket large enough to stuff...

THIS seal https://www.rockwelloffroad.com/2.5-ton-parts/2.5-TON-SEALS?product_id=106 replaces THIS seal: https://www.rockwelloffroad.com/2.5-ton-parts/2.5-TON-SEALS?product_id=62 which comes as part of the axle seal kit for the front. Your extra money buys an improved seal (sock seal) already...

Any of the "C" or "D" or even the Schwitzer "big whistlers" off the LDS will work on your truck. Read up on the differences before you decide you want a "C".

Scored a few goodies....one of them is set of 11.00R20 Michelins on Canadian combat rims. Ok treads, some are new/not run, a couple need new O-rings for the rim halves. I admire guys that mount 395's on Hutchinson rims with adapter plates all by themselves. I find even the 11.00R20 make me grunt...

Russojap, that picture is worthy for a military truck calendar!

Yes...blue-eyed, bushy-tailed me believed the label on the box that advertised ".20 oversized bearings"...I did not re-measure. I get your point and see the risk.

Read this: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?123335-DEUCE-BRAKE-LINE-REFERENCE-GUIDE-(Sizes-lengths-fittings) I had never done the "double flare" or "Inverted flare" but got myself a reasonably cheap brake line flare tool, some CUNIFER brake line and started making flares. Once...