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Shooting brake cleaner up through the fording hole in generous quantities also helps the clutch to live a little longer to get you home.

Old gasket: When you look at the gap between block and head 6 tabs are sticking out. They are designed to let the gasket "vent". Oil can leak from there (it is intended to allow overpressure to vent off instead of blowing the gasket). The fire rings are separate (not that you could see that with...

No I sent a couple emails...never got an answer. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

So, the yellow one started as a naturally aspirated multifuel that was "turboed " at some point. That large turbo is off an LDS465-1A. It is impressive, but the D-turbo (the smaller non whistler) is more effective. I'd look at the casting forward and below of the data plate for the TD letters...

Did not take long to get fuel forward! And she runs beautifully!

I wonder if pulling the truck backwards with another vehicle (clutch depressed) would have the same effect. It would turn the wheels, turn the transfer case, turn the PTO and turn the winch drive shaft?

So you got the suspension done? Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

When you look at the PTO output from the front, it turns clockwise to winch in, counterclockwise to winch out. Do not hammer the winch clutch, do not hammer the shear pin. There is tension on these parts. Depress the clutch with engine off, and turn the winch driveshaft with a breaker bar...

The main reason for using the stock filter base is to be able to return to stock condition easily. No reason to not use a commercial base/filter combo instead. I am curious to know what the Forest Service did on the secondary filter side. Did they perhaps put two spin ons in series to create...

Ha! Drive her over to the junk yard, park and get out. On the drive home she'll be the quietest she has ever been!

Charge your camera! We want a video! Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

I simply used a heavy duty rubber-covered push-button switch (starter switch) from a tractor supply store, drilled a hole through the cross member in line with the rod and mounted the switch so that the rod will press the push button when in reverse. Has worked flawlessly since 2009! No cover...

So your pedal is firm and has about 3 1/4 in of travel, stopping well above the floor? I'd say that is good and in line with tightly adjusted brakes. Is your complaint that the pedal sits high off the floor to start with? Have you oiled your air pack lately? A bit of air tool oil through the hex...

Here are some threads that might help: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?76883-Instruction-manual-for-using-the-CTIS https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?88040-manual-ctis https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?33133-Need-to-disable-M35A3-CTIS

I think the first decision needs to be whether you wish to build a functional CTIS or whether you disconnect and plug it in a manner that lets you verify air pressures conventionally and leave it at that. CTIS can be an expensive proposition to maintain in working order. People here have done both.

Yes, Aaron made a square pod with room for alarm lights. I am just using a standard round gauge pod that clamps to the steering column. It's green so it belongs there.

Any updates, Golddigger? Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

The 2in gauges are a little small. WESTACH makes a dual EGT and boost gauge. Mounted in a pod on the steering column, in line of sight, and painted green, it looks like something that *could* be stock. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

Would you mind posting pics of the suspension? I have never seen the 108 one, so it would be really interesting!

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?67703-What-did-you-do-to-your-deuce-this-week/page744 Post #7439 I had the rear end jacked up by the frame, axles hanging free. It was easy to pivot the spring pack out of the way.