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Thumbs up on that. I re-used the original seals but used 50 year clear outside sealant when I replaced the windshields and refurbished the frames...wow...nine years ago. I think this is the only way to reliably prevent water from seeping into the hollow window frames. No rust or bubbles since.

Vietnam war and corresponding increase in size of US military.

I am with scar...don't try and rebuild the air pack on the fly. The "parked when pedal went to the floor" and water in the air tanks story tells me that whoever had the truck did not know much about it and probably did not do any maintenance, either. I'd be double careful checking it over. If...

You really, really, really want to think about the OD upgrade right now...you get a gasket set, a new main shaft, needle bearings, syncro hub for 2/3 syncro, 5th gear and sleeve for needle bearings on main shaft, and 5th counter shaft gear. Not sure you need a new 2nd...

Some tips and suggestions in here, but no final outcome: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?70605-Deuce-runs-only-at-idle

Did the fuel shutoff release all the way? Does the lever on the IP sit in the 7 o'clock position?

The front bumper seems proof that the winch on that truck works.....I bet the chain was wrapped around the bumper and the winch was (accidentally) engaged..... the bumper centre is pulled up and inwards.

Hm. Grounds. Everything else works. I will investigate the grounds.....

My Deuce is definitely female and she always finds something irritating to do. Latest kink is that both headlights come on with low beam when the truck is first started. After a few seconds the left headlight goes dark. It works fine when high beam is selected but immediately goes dark on low...

If the issue is output (voltage too high or too low) then it might just be the voltage regulator that sits in the "end cap" of the alternator. Cap plus regulator replace for about $80. You would be looking for P/N SAW-10799130 or NSN 2920-01-079-9130, if your alternator is the usual 60A NSN...

Maybe as simple as a bent shift fork from previous attempts to get it into second? Ideally, you could swap tranny tops with a known ok shifting transmission and see if yours performs better with a new top.

It does 80 km/H (50 mph) at just under 2000 rpm. Governed at 2500 rpm and it runs way faster that I ever want to go at that rpm (well North of 60 mph).

My wife (!) commented that ever since I put the LDS into my truck she cannot hear me leave home or come back. With the previous LDT, that was no problem - you could hear the truck with windows closed. D-turbo on both. I choose to believe the character explanation, although the truth probably...

Evil Dr. Porkchop is the newest pipeline truck expert - he just restored one and put it to work.

I let the engine run at increased idle (just under 1000rpm) until the air buzzer stops. Thats my time for a walkaround. Then I drive off, keeping rpm reasonable until temp comes up. If I stop directly after a highway run, I do let it idle before shutdown. In my usual parking spot, there is a...

Some guys get to play with the really cool toys!! :-D

No clearance issues on my truck. The plastic switch is a bit smaller than the military one. If you have an issue, you can use an elbow. Polarity does not matter.

Drain and take the lid with the shifter off. That way, you get a good visual of the inside. Then you can do an informed selection of the options you have...such as spray the crud out with WD40, refill tranny and run it, with fingers crossed. If it fails, well, swap out or repair. If you swap out...

I would start with M35-tom on this site (waterloospecialties.com) He also sells the overdrive kit. He has the correct bearings etc.

Actually, that is often the smart thing to do. If you were to stop with a tire on fire, you are risking your whole rig (or at least the whole trailer if you uncouple the tractor and move it away). A tire is hard to extinguish, burns very hot and when it burns, it will set ablaze whatever is...