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no, its a m1008

Literally. If I go over 55 my truck starts to act up. It acts like its not getting fuel but there is a puff of smoke out both sides. If I stay under 45 or so its fine but sometimes wants to die when stopped.... Whats the most likely cause? I wanna fix this pretty quick. Its my daily driver...

I run it in about every third tank. I buy it in a gallon jug and pump out what I need. It just didn't make it in this tank till I made the point to add it.

Stopped at the truck stop today and topped off the tank. It was just below half. Also added some Optilube XPD additive. Truck seems fine now. So hopefuly it was just bad fuel. Thanks for the input. I think I'm going to buy a filter and lift pump for cheap insurance.

I was coming home from work yesterday and I got to my exit and at the bottom theres a stop sign. When I stopped at the sign the truck acted like it wanted to die and then surged and went back and forth a couple of times, then was fine. It had only done it the one time so I kept driving trying to...

I say go with the D-max. As far as everyday drivability and mileage it far surpasses everything else. There isn't a kit as far as I know but mounts and crossmembers arn't hard to make if you have the right tools. The hardest part would be the wiring. You will also wan't to keep the allison if...

The cables do have an adjustment. The adjustment is used to put the proper amount of preload on the spring in the valve body. It also ensures that at WOT the valve is all the way open.

The universal ones wont work because there is no where to hook it up on the injector pump. There is a very specific amount of travel and radius that it must travel. If someone has one for a RESONABLE price let me know. Otherwise if it becomes to hard to find i'll make my own. It'd be a real pain...

I'm on the hunt for the 6.2 t.v. cable bracket for the 700r4. Anyone have one (or more) that your willing to part with? Thanks

I was wondering about that too..... Maybe some tranny fluid and spare alt. belts

Your driveshafts will work. You will either have to keep the transfer case that was behind the 700r4 or swap out the 700r4 output shaft to match the one you have now which is expensive. Don't forget that you must have a governor, tv cable brackets and torque converter from a diesel truck. Use...

M1008 a.k.a. "The War Wagon"

"right stuff" is bada$$. I use that stuff for everything. So yeah use the gasket with a thin layer of right stuff and it will seal up great. Don't forget to retighten the bolts after a day or so if its a cork gasket

I agree. The vacuum modulator is most likely the cause and if that doesn't fix it take a look at the governor.

I know of 4 optimas that myself and friends have tried, 3 redtops and a yellow. All have failed from sitting. If you leave it in something that has a constant draw (read fuel injected or computer) they don't last. I went back to putting duralast's in everything I own/work on. Have much better...

I agree...maybe not about the mileage but if its not moving at all and not trying it is most likely a band/clutch issue not a governor issue. The governer should only affect when the tranny shifts not whether it engages or not.

Pull one battery, one set of batt cables and rewire the starter harness for 12v and your almost done. You can just pull out the glow plug harness and hardware and slave cable stuff. P.S. 366 is a small c.i. big block chevy put in dumptrucks etc.

I think they look bada$$ bobbed. Thats enough of a reason for me.

Google works wonders rear main cap torque specs 111 lb-ft inner bolts, 100 lb-ft outer bolts Oil pump cover to pump body, 120 lb-in Oil pump -> main cap bolt, 59-74 lb-ft

Buy a book from ATSG. Surf the net a little and see what people are doing to "build" them and dive in. I did the same thing in my V8 S10 that had a 700r4 and it was a great experience. Now transmissions don't scare me. I would be sure to buy a quality kit. Some of the cheaper kits might not...