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I always admire it when someone can fabricate in metal like that! The rack looks good. I thought you were going to build the Canadian Forces spec MLVW rack, but yours is a luxury version!
Just recovering from ordering the rod bolts. Needed to search around; they ranged between $23.20 and $25 A PIECE. Makes the ARP head studs look cheap (I did not order these). I finally managed to source the 12 point rod bolts for $16.45 each.
My original plan was to get a takeout running engine...
Sure you can. Parts vendors and your friendly internet auction site carry "turbo kits", which is all the hardware you need, minus the turbo. You need to adjust the fuel after you did that.
Here is some more head gasket info: read up on tools required and new style vs old style gasket...
Yes, there are freeze plugs on that side, both on the heads and on the block (but these are quite a bit lower down). It really doesn't matter whether it is a freeze plug in the head or a head gasket - the head has to come off for either one. Sorry. Here is a fun thread to get you in the mood...
I'll tell you right now, before a flame war starts, that this has come up several times and is not considered to be a good or safe idea. There are convincing mechanical reasons why the right/left threads need to be there. Changing all to right hand thread drastically increases the chance of...
The flat plastic washer from the plumbing isle, intended to fit sink traps etc. is a perfect fit. Bring your cap; I think it is the 1 1/4 inch diameter.
I searched and see that the bolts are available from tractor supply specialists such as Maibach and they are the 12-point style.
Which part # am I looking for? Or is it just for the 2-135 Oliver/White engine?
I hoped to avoid a full "refresh" on this engine, but...darn....heads will be off...
Preparing to get an LDS ready for the swap - progress report and questions
I have an ailing LDT in my truck that I suspect of having two "holy" pistons and will be swapped out for a later rebuild project.
I just brought home a takeout LDS-465-1A, overhauled by Continental. I am ready to...
Here is some info on the switch: http://olive-drab.com/od_mseries_lightswitch.php
The top lever should be in "service drive" for normal operations, giving you headlights, taillights, turn signals and stop lights.
The flasher unit (engine compartment, driver side fender) is known to not like a...
Yes, you describe the function of the fuel shut off cable "plunger" accurately! Its only job is to pull the lever towards the firewall when you pull the shutoff inside the cab.
The throttle return spring : Maybe this helps...
M35A2 REAR MAIN SEAL AND SPEEDYSLEEVE:
SKF manufacturer "Chicago Rawhide" CR brand. there are 3 part numbers that come up in the cross reference. They are 49927, this one is the one with the longer lasting flouroelastomer "Viton" seal ( more expensive too). The other two are both "Nitrile" seals...
"Or should I just break down and replace all the IP seals and bypass the FDC? Probably will make me sleep the best at night. I don’t have a pryometer to adjust the IP fuel flow, so I would prefer to not bypass the FDC just yet, and getting the boost pump out seems to be an ordeal."
You are...
Just to be clear: When you open the cover and look at the lever, it sits in the 6 or 7 o'clock position, and the truck starts. When you operate the lever by hand, it has some resistance, moves towards the fire wall, to about the 4 or 5 o'clock position, the engine stops and the lever returns to...
Flame heater is cool technology and, hey, a foot long flame in the intake is awesome. Ether start has a bottle, a solenoid/metering valve and a switch. Much less to go wrong.
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