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Forgive my ignorance, but wouldn't this be compatible with a standard wide-body battery box that's also used on the PRC-113, PRC-138, PRC-150, and similar? If so, eBay can set you up pretty quickly and cheaply. If it's not, I'd start with Murphy Surplus. He seems to keep around some "old...

I never remember to take pictures... I had my old roommate come by yesterday so that I could return some tools to him and he could return a shelf to me, but asked him to bring his welder with him to tackle a little project... My driver seat has been out of my HMMWV for over a month now because...

Take to making sheet metal brackets. You can mount this fabricated plate so that it matches up to existing holes and then drill like mad on that bracket you made. Just take a look at the radio rack, speaker mounting plates, and made other items throughout... It's relatively common for them to...

I don't have great info, but here's some info... It's sourced by the UK. Manufactured by "Selex ES Limited.". Below are some alternate part numbers: 9RO-0537/01 DD50-31-00-100 P50310000 There's also a part number under the manufacturer "MINISTRY OF DEFENCE FORCE PROTECTION INTEGRATED PROJECT...

Went to a company holiday party with my wife, met an old friend I hadn't expected to ever see again (but had shared stories of with my wife prior to tonight), and ended up winning a new sound system for my HMMWV. Great night! For the record, the speaker I won was a waterproof Bluetooth JBL...

Try out part 12340809 / NSN 2540012030183. That's the original lap belt part for the HMMWV. Might be worth finding some kind of 5-point system that attaches to your seat assembly for better safety. I don't personally know much about setting up something like that, but be sure your seat and...

In the wonderful world of 3D printing, anything can be a shift knob. The basis of that button design is that the main body should have a hollow cavity large enough to slide onto the shift lever with a cross-pin to secure it in place. On the top, you need a hollow cavity to allow the push...

Sent a couple of PMs. I have you covered, at least for some version of it. I'm not sure the Falcom software I have will do what you need... Sent from my Nokia 6.1 using Tapatalk

This connector almost meets your requirements: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/family?key=imperium_high_voltagehigh_current_hvhc_connector_system&channel=products&chanName=family&pageTitle=Introduction&parentKey=sealed_connectors Only thing it's shy of is it's not submersible...it can...

Indiana's version? Is there a bill in draft that I'm missing for Indiana right now?

That wing nut should be the only thing holding it in. it might be worth tapping the edges of the filter with a light mallet to try and pop free any corrosion that may have formed from the back of the filter to the housing, but there's supposed to be a non-metallic ring back there preventing...

Mine is serendipitously secured due to a fitment issue. My transmission has the wrong shifting stud, so I can't connect my shift lever right now. In order to shift my HMMWV, you have to open the doghouse cover, reach down, and rotate the short lever directly on the transmission. Quite an odd...

Oh man... I've got some serious unicorns hanging around the house. I'm going to have to try out this equestrian modification. Sent from my Nokia 6.1 using Tapatalk

If my hunch is correct on the notation, you can just hard-wire the body to engine connections I mentioned together, disconnect the temp sensor inputs, and wire your push button for the glow plugs onto a relay that's triggered off of Body B and sourced power from engine E. That should make it so...

This is basic piece I have right now... Body side: A = Neutral safety switch (connector 14B) B = Master/Start Switch (Run position, connector 29C) C = Brake warning lamp switch (connector 67A) D = Ground (connector 57B) E = WTS Lamp power (connector 571A) F = Position F on light switch, likely...

I concur! If a moderator will work with me, I'd be happy to take the time to sift through everything for them to put together a common naming standard (TM X-XXX-XXX-XXX, then note what each TM # is in the post itself as a quick cross-reference) and to guide them on everything to merge together...

The Diesel Care website listing doesn't matter so much. They're just listing years based upon the common application, as most vehicle moved to an electronic control after that year, though the military remained mechanical with only two solenoids. They can rebuild any of them and should know...

I actually don't see those manuals in there. He's needing the A2/ECV manuals. Note the 387 part in the manual number I referenced above. You do have an excellent resource collection, regardless. Sent from my Nokia 6.1 using Tapatalk

He just needs to hide his license plate and only drive in convoys with friends in the MV hobby. Sent from my Nokia 6.1 using Tapatalk

I had the same issue in my HMMWV and it was resolved with an IP rebuild. I made use of DieselCare (based in Tennessee). You can use their main website http://dieselcare.us, or you can find them on eBay and pay less than $300 for the rebuild service, which includes shipping both ways. To be on...