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I'm going to give that one a shot...I have a surplus of carb cleaner and some sprayed over markings that are only the faintest of legible in the perfect light.

That one's the best, IMO. I have one, but I need someone to straighten out a bend (my fault...) and then get to repainting it to keep it nice.

I'm still running timber troop seats. I'm debating about dropping in new boards or replacing the whole assembly with the fiberglass version, as some high-speed mechanic thought it was prudent to clip off the front supports that rest on top of the cargo divider and prevent the bench from sagging...

So...if I'm reading that TB correctly, these number plate positions have all been incorrect. For one, it would technically need to be on the "fender" portion of the hood instead of near center, plus it also needs to be displayed upright. But in being upright, it would be in the view of the...

For clarity, I assume you're meaning RAK-15/4 and that this is the manual you're using: http://www.electrothermal.com/adminimages/M7064_RAK15_4_iss_3(2).pdf The full statement of issues there is that a red light is triggered by a boil-dry condition, voltage issue, or that "If fault condition...

That'll do. I myself need some more as I find cheap ones that are useful. Sent from my Nokia 6.1 using Tapatalk

As an update, everything I can find for similar fire-control systems looks like it uses FSK modulation. This is very common for military RTTY devices and a common world standard. For VHF use, you should be able to set the XMIT rate to 1200 (this is 1200 baud) and a preamble of 0.7. ...any...

I did find this FM describing how to use various DMDs (Digital Messaging Devices), including the AN/PSG-2: https://www.globalsecurity.org/military/library/policy/army/fm/6-30/f630_11.htm I'm still looking to see if any document describes what modulation this uses. If it's anything common, then...

I like to go for the option of containerizing things. Last camping trip, I did a military version of glamping. Brought as much of "the base" as I could muster up. Primarily had equipment in its designated transit containers (tents, field sink, camouflage screen, etc), then packed loose things...

What papakb said is likely spot-on, thanks to the very erratic behavior you get, but it will only cost you some time to do the following tests to be sure. Here's a quick way to test for the solenoid failure: Ensure your vehicle is secured from rolling and your transmission is in neutral. Feel...

I feel like this was just a challenge issued out to all young GIs... the operator's manual very specifically says to not use the pintle hitch as a step, yet every single 11B/C I've ever met always goes to step on that first to get in. I personally like to actually fold down the tail gate and...

It's actually an IED early warning system. Also, did some stuff today. Reinstalled my driver seat, the rear curtain, and fixed my brake light switch (out of adjustment). Then took it on a little cross town trip to pick up a server cabinet. Sent from my Nokia 6.1 using Tapatalk

Missed these...be sure to personally inspect all that yourself and get it figured out. Things fixed once can certainly break again. I agree that it's priority 1 and should make your HMMWV undrivable until it's sorted out. Instant loss of control is no joke. For heat loss, check the easiest...

That air meter measures the resistance to airflow in the air intake. If you want to test it, lock the throttle at a high idle and have a soldier B wrap a towel around the air intake...you can watch that gauge climb up...the reset button will allow the plunger to fall back to zero. The battery...

Welcome aboard! I'm in Indy and I have jackton of specialty tools and some worthwhile spare parts in storage. Every tool needed to tear down the engine, hubs, TC, and transmission. I'm lacking several of the tools needed to calibrate timing, but that can be done with some standard shop tools...

I ultimately went to NAPA and bought their 6TL batteries. They were fresh manufacture, exceed the minimum specs the HMMWV calls for in the parts manual, and you know that they're going to survive all the conditions that the HMMWV -10 says it can handle. I specifically needed the reserve...

Original HMMWV mirror was mounted to the body instead of the windshield frame, so it was much more able to work with the windshield folded down, though those mirrors really sucked and were hard to adjust. Actually, there were a lot of neat tricks the HMMWV had in it's original design that were...

I'm in for this, but I'm not promising one piece of equipment for it. I don't want to jinx it. Just be pleasantly surprised if I show up in something green. :D

Absolutely this. I've have multiple old electronic devices I've pulled from storage that have swollen or ruptured battery cells. Over-discharging is a big hazard, as well as poor charging regulation. Temperature swings only serve to make this worse.

Here's how you stay warm in a HMMWV in winter. Sent from my Nokia 6.1 using Tapatalk