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Can you take a picture??

I was describing - and recovery 4x4 commented on - the second scenario from the top. Snatch block mounted to the load to be pulled (i.e. moving with the load). That means 5t pull on each STRAND of cable, for a total of 10t (minus friction etc.) on the snatch block and therefore the load. It is...

That is why - if you can - you position your truck in such a way that you can attach the returning winch line to a fixed anchor point right beside your truck (tree, another truck), as opposed to attaching it to your own bumper shackle. That way, your frame only takes 5t load instead of 10t, when...

Thanks for the suggestions. Does anybody have experience with the bumper trays that are available from...OD Iron? OD Iron LLC Military Vehicle Parts and Accessories They look to be tough enough to permanently carry a 75lbs load. I think I will strap it to the inside of the bed for now until I...

I just got myself a cool NOS 10t snatch block. My spinal discs tell me that the block is probably underrated. Is there a good solution to store the snatch block on the truck? With the weight of that thing it needs to be securely latched down somewhere.

That refers to the sprag type transfer case. If you have an airshift, you are golden.

I have one and it is a life-saver. Please refer to the USER MANUAL for the wrench that is available here Steel Soldiers :: Military Vehicles Supersite to get the most use out of it!

It means that the truck was physically in a Theater, in this case Western Europe, and was rebuilt "in Theater" as opposed to being shipped to the continental US for a rebuild. The rebuild happened in Mainz, Germany.

Yes, I like it!

I would buy from Spruce Mountain, but, similar to some other sellers, he does not do business with Canadastan. Not even when picked up in the US.

:funny:

Baxter, could you share a few tips for the head gasket job, seeing it is fresh on your mind? You already mentioned the 7/8 O2 sensor socket...anything about procedure, how you did it, what worked and what gave you grief?

Well...at least carefully inspected. If, for example, your truck was apparently not exposed to road salt in a manner that caused corrosion everywhere, the steel brake lines can be in perfect shape. I'd replace the rubber flex lines, for peace of mind. On the other hand, if you find one badly...

You cannot be too careful or take anything for granted. I replaced all wheel cylinders, flex lines and brake shoes. Two months later and I just saw wetness on the inside of the left front tire..coming from the drain hole in the brake drum. Wanna bet it is a leaking brand new wheel cylinder?

Nice find! I always liked the proportions of the M342; it is on the short wheel base chassis. There was somebody on here a few weeks back who had troop seats for it and wanted to sell them.

rofl I never bought from ladies of the night, but at that price it could be worth the while!

This is so true! I have a Volkswagen TDI and added a coolant heater. It does exactly that. The clamps have to be ape-tight or the hose will not cope with the extreme temperature swings.

Would you mind elaborating on what finally worked for you and how you would have it done in an easier fashion?

I have a 1974 US M35A2C with winch. Softtop (brand new) and singled out (still on 9.00-20....for the time being). It is registered and has ON plates. I am a stickler for safety and replaced all flex hoses, brake cylinders and service brake shoes. Rust free truck, never seen salt, steel lines...

Congratulations to a nice looking deuce! You have a few advantages that many others do not have - such as a father that was an MV mechanic and access to active duty personnel that works (worked) on them. That alone can be invaluable. Have fun with your new truck!