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So you rebuilt your own IP trying to reseal it and you think you've got an issue with the throttle shaft seal of your IP causing a lot of similar issues with my truck? Yeah if these minor adjustments don't see an improvement I'm gonna take some videos post them here and take them to the...

Hey y'all, In my process of reworking the wiring in my M1008 back to stock 24V, I ended up tossing out my glow plug harness that was shredded to pieces. The coolant temp sensor at the back of the motor was busted, and I decided to replace it before I realized how bad the glow plug harness was...

Yessir, so earlier this year I got the truck rewired back to 24V with a 24V starter put back on, and we buttoned her back up (injectors replaced, glow plugs replaced, alternators were rebuilt, valve covers were painted and gaskets replaced, intake was deep cleaned and gasket replaced). Threw...

Update on IP situation: I spoke with a rebuild tech named Jeff at Diesel Parts of Carolina on 421 by me (throwing the name out in case anybody else is looking for a reputable diesel pump service). A little bit of a side note, the guy said he has tons of experience with DB2 Stanadyne pumps, has...

Okay I'm here at the garage checking on voltages with my charging system. Battery condition 12V (rear)- 12.2V 24V (front) - 12.3V Combined - 24.6V 1. Key off: Red DS - 12.3V Red PS - 24.6V Brown DS - 0.02V Brown PS - 0.04V 2. Key on (I've got an electric fuel pump causing some draw here)...

I've got some time on my hands (like a month or so). I don't plan on remaining idle with the truck. The driveshafts are off, I've got ujoints to order next week to replace the bad ones. I still need to do some work diagnosing the motor smoking issue, I will need some help from friends with that...

Reviving an old thread here - I've got the same issue as TedO. M1008 sitting for a few months, come back to a decent sized wet spot underneath my NP208. Visible drop on the rear output shaft and skid plate underneath the t-case. I plan on cleaning up then reassessing the leaks, but I know I'm...

Got the rear driveshaft off after doing something silly (taking the 6 bolts off the rear diff). Pulled up the little bolts with the covers at the rear differential ujoint, wiggled a pry bar, driveshaft dropped down, pulled it out of the tcase. Should have anticipated the tcase leaking thank...

Excellent, thanks. I'll be reporting back tonight.

Gonna get back on things today, see if I can take down the rear driveshaft and get the u-joints off I need to get replaced (front where front shaft meets front hub and rear two at ends of rear shaft). I already had the front driveshaft off. While I'm there I'm going to look over the IP stuff...

Too long since an update. We couldn't really see a way to loosen and adjust the pump without bending the fuel lines around, so we're deciding on a different route. The truck was smoking when I got it, Jr and Tom think it's the injector pump that's bad. Going to pull the IP out in the next few...

Interesting. I put 8 new (rebuilt) injectors in my motor cause it was slightly knocking and smoking bad when I very first got the truck. We thought some new injectors might fix the problem. @cucvrus suggested I loosen the 3 bolts on the IP and rotate the pump a line thickness to the driverside...

Okay well we got her running again tonight. She is DUMPING fuel and smoking bad. Even getting some fuel knock when we lay into it. Even at idle she's smoking bad. Is my issue at the injector pump? Injectors? Is there some screw that controls the fuel input somewhere?

It's too cold to stay here as long as I wanted to today. I fixed the 12V wire going to the horn: I also took a picture of the back of my passenger alternator: I've got the red and orange wires going to what I think is the positive terminal of the alternator. These go to the 24V bus bar. The...

@87cr250r you're right. We're gonna have to take the intake and fuel lines back off and get that leak sorted this week. Currently I'm going up to the shop to look around at some things: see if I can fix my horn broken wire, see if I can trace that 12V "ground" issue I'm having, and see if I...

Here's the update: We cracked the DS injector lines and cranked the motor over a while. Fuel came out and we tightened them down. Had smoke coming out the driver tailpipe. Worked the PS injectors, they bled and we tightened them back. Smoke out both tailpipes, she wants to run. We pushed 12V...

I've got the 12V battery ground going to the frame rail. I had it going to the negative bus and then the frame rail from the negative bus but my friends said i should be directly grounding the primary battery

@Buck69 really awesome writeup man, hats off to you for your thoroughness. I really appreciate it, and it's interesting to me because I feel like your truck and my new harness might be wired differently. I have no glow plug wiring harness in my truck, it was tore up and there was no GP control...

The negative should be hooked to the 12V battery. Only 2 things on the negative of the 24V battery are the cable to the positive 12V and the cable that runs to the engine wiring harness block to supply it with 12V. I will double check that tomorrow to make sure that's not where I'm going...

That would save me a lot of time tomorrow when I can get back up to the shop. If you don't mind, I'd appreciate it. Somehow I've got 12V of power coming out of it to the engine ground on the intake stud. My guess is it's gonna come out under the dash somewhere or I somehow have it connected to...