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Yup. It was good thinking on Rockwell's part to do it like that because it offers so much flexibility. I will say this - I spent hours pouring over pics and tech manuals and threads on here and elsewhere trying to figure it out in my head before I tried it at home. Once you start doing it...

The drum is in the same position as always. The hubs just flipped over and rebolted to the outside of the drum from it's backside instead of the other way. Trying to explain flipping hubs is not easy. The photo-article in the articles section does a really good job of showing how it's done...

Yeah ,The predominate green is I believe "383" current issue green - not sure about the manufacturer, it was on it when I bought it. The tan is "field drab," a military color from the 70's 4 color pattern. Here's a couple pics from the snow the other day. The one with the bumperlights is...

I didn't notice any power loss, but then again, there was never all that much hillclimbing power to begin with. It will climb up a 45 degree hill, but not fast. I have a quarter mile 15% grade right outside my neighborhood, and I gotta keep it in second at about 25 mph to get up it. It was...

Oh, by the way, Junkyard Wars Crusher- thanks a lot for the help. It really made it clear for me.

So where is the advantage to running locking front hubs with this setup? Seems like aside froma little bit of drag from turning the front diff/driveline, it accomplishes the same thing. Like I said before, I'll still probably put the lockling hubs on, just cuz they're so darn cool looking...

the NHC-250 Cummins. I am planning a future big-cam upgrade, but it's got plenty of power for now. I've had it up to 70+ mph on the freeway. I usually hold it around 65 or so at about 1800 rpm and that is comfortable.

I like this airvalve idea. Tell me more. Which airline does the valve go on? Is that all? Do I need to do anything to the sprags? (I still need to figure out why there is no reverse engagement)

RE: Check out my new 5-ton! Anyone know what color that is?

Sure, I'm getting them from the guy I bought my truck from. He's a MV collector, mostly focusing on armor. He found them at a swapmeet a few years ago and just stashed them away for a rainy day. He suggested welding the sprags and using an air-actuation setup to engage the front axle...

RE: Re: RE: Why do I have no front drive in forward, but do I don't have a pic now, but as soon as I pic them up I'll post one. We are fabricating the center spline shaft for them. Should be done soon, it's a pretty easy deal.

RE: Re: RE: Why do I have no front drive in forward, but do Sorry to hear that about the hubs.. They sure are cool looking. HUGE monsters! I may put them on anyway just for the neat factor. What do you all think they are worth?

My XM813A1 is doing great EXCEPT for the recent snows lately have made it very obvious that when in forward gears I have no forward axle engagement but in reverse I do. I have a spare complete transfercase, but I'd rather get some possiible ideas lined up before I tear into it. I want to do...

I didn't think about that! You're probably right. I'll try it. What is the best way to get the rear really tight?

That looks awesome! It looks like your top went on same as mine. At least all your tie-down ropes lined up with the hooks. Mine are all off. I don't think it's specifically a 900 series bed. I think it is just the ISO bed they put on all the USMC 800 series trucks when they put the...

The piston coolers are spray nozzles that direct engine oil onto the bottoms of the pistons. I am told they are cast into the block and are impossible to retrofit to a regular 250 cummins. Apparently this is why you can turn the fuel up and not melt the pistons.

The hood clearance problem isn't an issue. Having talked to two people that have done it you trim one of the front hood reinforcement ribs and optionally you put a rubber hood pad bolted to the front of the engine or somewhere near there to give it a little support if needed. You also have to...

I'm planning my turbo'd engine swap on my M813 soon and I've got a dilemma about which motor to get. A friend of mine has a low-use 855 ci Cummins with the piston coolers, turbo setup, complete (is this the NTC-290?) he'll sell me for $2000. It's apparently a small cam 855 but puts out...

Not yet. All my o-rings are holding air, but I'm not ruling out a leak eventually.

I'm not sure on the thread pitch, but can tell you that they are not a special one. I bought 40 of them for .87 cents each at a local nut/bolt shop in a nearby town. I can hook you up with them if you really need it. Heck, I'll pull one of mine off and take it to them to match up again...