Search results

Yes, that is how the front pins are set up on my M936A1. On my M543A2, it's like your first drawing.

Thanks for pointing out the axle vents! Mine may still be fine, since I found last night that the axle flange bolts were loose on the leaking hub.

My M543A2 has that vertical hole like you have drawn, and it doesn't seem to do anything useful on my truck, either. My M936A1 has a horizontal hole going through both sides of the U- bracket, though, and that works as expected. I'm at work now, so I can't take pictures at the moment. I think...

I wasn't planning to work on that hub this weekend before. But after the interesting direction this thread went, I may just reseal the axle flange and not worry about servicing the bearings just yet. So maybe I'll have a chance to take some pictures after all this weekend?

CONGRATULATIONS! :jumpin:

Is it problematic if oil has gotten past the outer seal and washed out some/all of the grease, but the oil can't flow freely between the axle housing and bearings because the outer bearing seal is still in place? Conversely, if converting to wet hubs, should any grease be used at all? Or should...

I almost fell for that, by the way. But I also figured out what to name my two most recent truck purchases. M923: "Poor Impulse Control" M936A1: "Hookers 'n' Blow"

McMaster-Carr carries cap screws with drilled heads, but apparently not in grade 8. I think it would be wise to check the lock washers under those cap screws, and replace any which aren't springy enough. Maybe the wedge-type Nord-lock washers that are popular on HMMWV halfshafts would also work...

Nice! I am curious about that enclosed gondola. I don't think that is standard equipment on an M936.

Bigmota, the transmission does need to be in neutral to shift the transfer case, or else you will just grind gears. You need to press and hold the button on the end of the transfer case lever while shifting to release the interlocks that you mentioned. If the truck is not moving and the gears...

Hey, should I be worried about knowing off the top of my head exactly what size of wrench to grab to go fix my truck in the dark? :whistle:

I just read this thread, and decided to grab a flashlight and 3/4" wrench and check that dripping hub on my M936A1 before bedtime. Sure enough, loose bolts all around! I still plan to service that hub before the truck goes anywhere, but maybe that will shut off the drip for the next week or...

Hmm, interesting. So, is it even a problem if some gear oil got past the outer bearing seal and got into the grease? I do not expect to ever ford the truck.

The flange looks like it is presently sealed with RTV, and that's how I have usually sealed my axle flanges in the past. It usually works well, but sitting on a side slope with oil up against it for a long time is a tough test to pass. Now that I think of it, I want to take that wheel off to...

Thank you! Maybe the bearing seals are intact, the bearings didnt get marinated in oil, and it's just the axle flange gasket leaking? Well, I won't know until I get in there. If there's any imperfection in the outer seal, the oil probably had time to find it while the truck sat with a flat tire...

My M936A1 arrived with a nearly flat rear tire. Thanks to the resulting slope of the axle, it was also leaking gear oil where the axle flange bolts to the hub. It is still dripping with the tire inflated, but it's parked on a slight side slope at the moment. I'll move the truck this weekend...

My windshield washer fluid system wouldn't squirt water at first, too. After determining that the bottle was getting pressure and the spray nozzles were clear, I found that the problem was a stuck impeller in the little air-driven water pump at the bottom of the pickup tube inside the bottle. I...

If the cab isn't leaking, then it isn't raining. ;) Congratulations on very successful recoveries!

I recommend making the modification to replace the hydraulic brake switch with the pneumatic one. The hydraulic brake switch is a known safety problem.

Is your truck's brake switch a pressure sensor in the hydraulic brake line? If so, its failure may have caused both the loss of braking and the fire. If I recall correctly, there was an MWO to replace the hydraulic brake switch with a pneumatic one because of problems with the hydraulic ones...