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If you use crap rivets they will, you want to use cherry rivets, they don’t leak, those screws will loosen because the roof will flex, especially off road, you are better off welding it. You do realize the entire truck is assembled with rivets right?

I would use rivets….

the engine doesn’t crank, nothing to do with a dead spot in the starter, it’s as if the truck is being started in gear or like a bad neutral start switch. if you leave the key in “start” and push the brake pedal, you hear a click, like activating a switch of some sort, the engine won’t start...

Anyone seen an issue where the engine won’t start until after you press the brake pedal about 20-40 times? when I push the brake pedal to start, you hear a click in the engine bay, brake pedal has to be depressed to start by design, and while I hear the click each time, it won’t start unless i...

there is no reason to just change over to a 200amp other than space….the only reason for removing is to inspect the body harness if you see the rear of the generator fan shroud in contact with the harness…if that’s the case, it’s very possible there is a short in a portion off the harness at...

You need to use marine grade plywood

it would be a shame to rob parts off that REV…I have M1165 rear walls, I will trade you for the truck

You will need a nice balance in your checking account and you will need to start with just the “long block” off the civilian 6.5TD motor and go from there, nothing on the civilian motor works on the military application.

well, if the engine is hot? It will flash once very quickl, bec you dint need glow plugs on a warm/hot engine, if its stone cold? It’s not lightning off the glowplugs, you on,y need glow plugs on “cold starts”

I have them used takeouts

I have pieces of decking here at the shop, would need to know the size piece you would need…

Only the Truklite mfg are black, the incandescent lights are generally only green or Tan. The Hmmwv’s from the factory do not install Truklite, it’s Interlog or Swiss Controls

The relay is universa, it’s designed to switch on 12v when 24v is supplied in the case of the Trans relay, the other Relay is for windshield de-icer or AFES, can’t remember which one at the moment. We remove all that extra wiring as it’s no longer needed, the transmission TCM power runs through...

ComTac, Wolfer…all the same Chicomm knock off junk sold under the auspices of NOS…

that’s a PCB with a GPC….toss it in the garbage can

There is a C-channel that screws onto the sides and top to seal up the front of the bed cargo cove, there is a later model cargo bed cover that installs on this truck, not to be confused with the softop version of the low cargo bed cover….that uses velcro, you could make an adapter of sorts to...

the R4 compressor uses 3/8 bolts that pass from the rear to the front, you do not use the threads to secure the compressor.

You might want to post a location….its a big country

I find it odd everyone ignores the fact the ability to run 12v accessories is already built into the hmmwv, and actually built into all tactical vehicles since the inception of the hmmwv. ECV’s on up have all the fuses and power strips waiting for you on the transmissio/accessory panal Behind...

Brake lamp on is low brake fluid or bad brake switch on the ebrake lever, the ball get corroded and won’t move…