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To farther explain, the reason I would use a three terminal flasher where one lead was ground is because they do not depend on the load at all to operate, they get power on X and the circuit is powered through the ground (usually pin E) independently of the load. I will post an example Here is...

I was always thinking I would try one of the three terminal flashers where one was ground, but that one should work, curious if you leave the flasher unplugged do the lamps lite when you switch the turn signal on right or left? Also you hooked X to 325B (terminal B) and the load to 325A...

You ground the negative lead to the engine or other good ground

I just said in the above post that 17 was high and 18 was low

I would leave the wires attached and use the meter lead to pierce the wire insulation, 16 is feed (should be 24V no matter what the switch position is in (with the light switch in service drive ) 17 is high beam and 18 is low beam.

You have nothing there, the meter is only reading mV so the 130 = .13V What I would do at this point is make sure you have good voltage going in and out of the dimmer switch.

Check the LED indicator bulb, it should be "backwards" meaning the positive goes to the shell and neg goes to the contact point, easy enough to test with a couple test leads.

At least now you have it figured out and have the resources to fix it(y) What kind of symptoms did you have? I would think this would cause a high speed vibration

I am sorry, I miss understood, I guess you meant to say the drive flange was OK, to me axle=half shaft

Good deal! Just so it will be here this is what a 10K/12K A1/A2 half shaft should look like, I believe you have a half shaft from a late ECV of REV truck.

The half shaft does not look right, it should have the same pilot dia as the drive hub.

To bad he just uses PM instead of helping the rest of us with a lesson which is one of the main purposes of this forum.

What is the OD of the rotor?

The way the lip is under the rotor at the begining of your tape measure I would suspect the drive flange is 3.54" the rotor and half shaft are from something other than an A1/A2

I just went out and measured a A1/10K rotor, a A1/10K drive flange also a A1/10K and a A2/12K half shafts with my cheapo Chicom calipers and they all measure 3.54" They should all measure this way until you get to the later trucks (15K?) This is to say the A2/12K half shafts will bolt up to the...

Looks like you have some mish mashed parts, the 10K/A1 and the A2/12K have a 3 1/2 (aprox but real close) pilot. Measured at the half shaft. It looks like nether the rotor, drive flange or half shaft come even close, all three, flange/rotor/half shaft should measure the same. The late model...

Nice work!!

It means when the short is removed it is supposed to automatically reset, there are so many Chinese knockoff electrical components out there and they are all crap unless you are sure you have a legitimate switch that could be the problem, also do you have a 400A alt? if so there is likely a...

Wide Freaking Open

It does not have a fuse, the light switch has an auto reset breaker.