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I bought a piece of scallop cut mesh camo netting (radar scattering?) to act as a sun shade over my cargo bed area, without using the cargo cover itself. Tried it on the wife's Grand Cherokee, it is like spilling spot remover on your dog:

Depends. The 250 motor has a ton of off-idle torque, the 8.3L has none. Also, the 250 at idle sounds like it is going to eat people, and the 8.3L sounds like it is picking up your kids from school, or delivering your wife's Echo from Amazon. Wow, that was the most reverse-biased post I have...

5 year old thread, and I usually pick on that, but this one was great, as I'm looking for the same in my 5t. I started with an extruded aluminum commercial door threshold, and only have a shelf so far, but need a 90 on the front to give it a mounting face. TMG sells one, but is over $1,000, so...

I would not wait, go with another source.

There is, but you can’t see it...

I ended up buying everything I needed vs making, since I needed to purchase all the UPA's, support arm, etc, anyway.

The t-case housing splits open.

Bummer, sorry. Maybe he hates dealing with shipping. I paid him up front and gave him a Fed-Ex number to ship my stuff on. No excuse, but that would be my guess.

Who did you go with?

Nice job on this, bro. You got it done, I just have piles of parts, stacks of dreams, and 3hrs of algebra homework with my daughter per night. Last week of that, thank goodness.

Keeo your micro-press on it full force, then heat the retaining bracket with a propane torch. Then strike bracket with large hanmer. Love the more tools joke.

They said it was the coolest thing ever, go park it in the VIP section.

I put a wood splitting wedge on the inside of it to put some separating pressure on it. This is when TedCat stopped by, complained the hammer I was using was too small, pushed me out of the way, got under there, and swung/hit the bracket so hard that I thought he cracked it in half. In 2 hits...

I oriented 10 of mine in line with the length of the torque rod. The upper centers I did at 45 degree angle to the torque rod length. I used stainless bolts with lock nuts instead of cotter pins.

I’m writing this from the Poison concert, so it is going to be short. Use a strap and pull wrench rearward with a truck. That is how I did it.

The offset wrench is only for the right side, upper-centers. All others are done with a standard 2-1/4” combination wrench. In the pic you showed, that is an upper end (not upper center). Have to hit those with an open end wrench only. Nut can’t be pulled out until the taper is broke free...

3 dog bones walk into a bar....

I sprayed the outside of the new link end metal shell and ID of rod end with WD-40. I pressed in the center of the new link end to install (easy/lazy). I'm sure you are supposed to press the new one in by the outer shell. When the rubber is new, it can easily handle this much shear force with...

The triangular "weapons tray" on my LWS ring is not like the Humvee one, so I am told. Mine is symmetric on both legs (same length), and looks to not require what is called a "bearing sleeve", which is a tube with 4 square headed set screws in it. A bearing sleeve looks to be typically...