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I'm sorry, but I just don't know how to communicate this any differently. The a/c voltage test is not a static test. The engine has to be turning over to generate the a/c voltage signal. If you're not cranking the engine over while you are checking for ac voltage at the MPU, you will always get...

Hi, just a little clarification. The ohm check is only to check the integrity of the wiring to the MPU and also to check the windings inside the MPU. The proper way to check and set the a/c output voltage on the MPU is while cranking the engine over with the starter. (With good, fully charged...

Sometimes I think the engineers just need something to do to justify their wages. That would explain why something so simple gets way over-engineered 🤪

So simple!

Interesting. I’ve never seen such a level sensor that can operate a full range gauge. I’ve seen many different kinds level switches though that can turn on and off indicator lights etc. That is high tech.

Sounds reasonable! Is the MEP-10xx series unit a single float on a rod with (3) different docking points? I would think that the fuel gauge would still require a variable resistance while the low fuel shutdown and the auxiliary pump would be fine with an on/off setup.

Speaking from experience it seems like! Yes, those things are touchy from what I’ve discovered.

I know that it does serve a purpose. My wheels were just turning, trying to come up with a simple solution if the dual float switches are either no longer available, or they’re just way over priced. I was trying to prioritize the low fuel shutdown versus the auxiliary fuel pump operation. I...

You both have contributed so much to this awesome forum!

Just thinking out load here. The wheels are turning! Unlike the fuel gauge sending unit which is basically just a variable resistor, the dual float the we’re talking about in this thread I believe is more of an on/off switch for two different purposes. One float I believe is to activate the low...

I was thinking that you or @kloppk could design one, build it and then market it here on this forum 😇

But, we can't get these sending units with brass floats unfortunately.

I'm a big fan of brass floats. I've never seen one fail.

It's kind of interesting to me. I went back and read some of the information in the TM's about installing and adjusting the MPU. I did find that @Jackal63 is correct. It does mention in https://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachments/15kwmep-804tqg9-6115-643-24p-pdf.602128/ to use an ohm meter across...

I forgot to add…the name that’s on the seal package may not be as important as the name that’s on the seal itself.

The reality is that there's probably only a half dozen or so companies that make all of our oil seals. SKF, National, Dayton, KOK for example. I have a little resentment towards eBay too. I know that we lost the battle years ago to buy strictly US made items. The US companies have surrendered...

I believe that we check the MPU with an a/c volt meter, not an ohm meter. First, remove the MPU from the bell housing for inspection and cleaning. If it doesn’t show any signs of touching the flywheel, no damage to the tip, just clean it and reinstall it. Screw it in by hand until you can feel...

Read and study intently the TM that I sent to you. These machines are designed very well, and the more that you get to know yours the easier it gets to troubleshoot things like you’re dealing with. I’m a little confused about your starter. So you have a new one that is causing the battery cables...

Have you tried disconnecting the wires to the alternator? To the glow plugs? You may have a shorted alternator or a stuck glow plug relay.

I would read the TM to find out. One other question that I have. When you say that you get "sparks" while connecting your battery cables, are they high current sparks or low current sparks? Is the master control switch in the off position?