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The 53009 extended is meant to be used with 46153 coolants. Do not use it with other coolants. Due to the age of the 46153 standard, it's likely a sodium nitrite inhibited coolant. You cannot buy these at auto parts stores anymore. All auto parts stores sell carboxylic acid inhibited coolants...

They appear to be OEM which is good. I've ordered form Bostic before. The part I received had a defect but they corrected it very quickly at no cost. 👍

FYI, the OP's post showed water temps in and out of the radiaror. If the radiator water side was clogged or restricted the temperature of the water leaving the radiator would have been much cooler.

Why use 1 minute? It's going to take you a few hours to assemble. You don't need or want a fast cure time. Also, you want black. The gray is for machined surfaces, the black is for stamped...

Just use the Right Stuff. It's all you need to do.

McMaster-Carr sells it. https://www.mcmaster.com/coolant-hose/high-temperature-coolant-hose-7 https://www.mcmaster.com/coolant-hose/high-temperature-vacuum-rated-coolant-hose The top selection has a braided or spiral wire reinforced option. The braided hose cannot be bent. The bottom...

The engine and generator don't cool through the enclosure, they have their own pumped air. Go ahead and insulate the enclosure. But, make sure your insulation will tolerate 50°C temperatures.

If you use RTV only the straightness of the valve cover doesn't matter so much. Don't fall for the high temp advertising and whatnot. Silicone can be very permeable and will seep oil normally. The Right stuff black doesn't seep as badly as the classic red and blue RTVs. There is a new...

Don't make this complicated. The washers seal the sides of the fitting. The threads require additional sealing. You can use Loctite, an acorn nut, a nylock, pipe thread sealant, etc...

If you're using a nut and bolt you're going to need to use a capped or acorn nut otherwise air can leak along the threads of the nut. A new nylock nut may also seal sufficiently well.

A standard bolt will work. https://www.mcmaster.com/#92865A433

Why would Donaldson advertise it as a dust ejector if that were the case?

You can use a standards hex bolt with the sealing washer as a plug. Or, you can get something like banjo to JIC adapter and cap it. https://www.mcmaster.com/#4545K311

Just for clarity, advancing the timing is not the same as turning up the pump. Advancing the timing is done externally by loosening the 3 mounting studs for the pump and rotating the entire pump body.

What does the nameplate on your injection pump say? DB2829-**** or DB2831-****. As others have aluded, your pump may be for a turbo engine or turned up.

If you have any buddies with a machine shop, you can also Loctite some bolts in the holes, mill them flush and redrill straight.

The intake manifold bolt holes are different between the NA and turbo Optimizers. Because of that, no not all Optimizers work NA.

Other things to consider, the torsional damper from a 6.2 will not work on the optimizer. The water pump backing plates varies depending on which water pump you end up running. You need to get one with cylinder heads that match your intake configuration. Angled vs straight holes. You'll need...

In addition to the bellhousing and motor mount bolts, the oil cooler lines are 1/2 NPT on the Optimizer. You'll need to bush down to 3/8 if you want to reuse your 6.2 fittings.

If the bigger unit is available I see no reason not to run it. We run our generators at 10% load for 99% of their run time and they do fine. The big 8.1L engines got to burning oil but made it to 35k hours run-time. We replaced with 4.5 liter engines. Fuel consumption doesn't change much, they...