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That screw in your way is the back side of the throttle stop screw.
In reality you could cut it off a bit with a dremel and small cut off wheel.
The piece in your way is the excess screw, not the business end of the screw.
I'm confused on your S7 issue. You said you have no connection between...
So you are only having a no-crank issue while the motor is hot.
and it sounds like you haven't gotten the cover off the S7 but you verified the contacts are closed, I assume you probed the leads to verify?
Have you checked to see if you're getting power to the small wire on the starter solenoid...
Not sure if you tried already, but if you take the center stud out for the S7 cover you should be able to get it out.
It's pretty difficult to get it out with the removed and almost impossible with it in place.
You guys really go deep into fuse selection! many many time I just went to my assortment of glass tube car fuses and grabbed a $.25 30A 1/4 x 1 1/4 AGC fuse, install it and done!
On the oil gage situation I see someone already changed the oil pressure gage, I'd double check the wiring and check...
You kind of lost me on the thermal cut-out switch. That wouldn't prevent cranking, but it would cause the gen to not stay running after you let go of the start switch. The S7 starter interrupt switch under the cover near the alternator fuse will prevent cranking.
Sounds like you may have more...
Actually I've used several CHEAP digital meters in the past and they were fine. I used the cheap "Domestic" rectangular digital meters with the red display ( $15 ) ( Sold domestically, but probably built in China ) as well as the rectangular ones with the blue display ( $10 ) both functioned...
Before replacing the starter did you check for power getting to the starter solenoid, and are you sure the click you are hearing is the starter and not the Fuel solenoid and starter relay?
Agreed the new starter is a better design, but you might want to investigate deeper to be sure the starter...
Removing the "Pan" is not a simple task. You will have to disconnect the motor mounts and a few things and lift it up off the frame to be able to drop the pan and access the pickup screen. Not a real big deal, but not as simple as just unbolting the pan and dropping it down either.
On that motor I've never seen a bypass valve get stuck, but anything is possible. The problem is that it is located under the flywheel on the back of the engine, not easily accessible. Try the oil 40W first and see what happens. A little usage may free things up if it is stuck, but I think it is...
You won't be doing anything with the diags plug to troubleshoot this problem.
If I understand you correctly, when you disconnect 136D from S1 the CB no longer pops, but that's simply because you have disconnected power to the CB.
Best bet like LITD said is unplug everything 1 by 1 until it no...
So the inner piece that the cap screws onto ( with the 12 point head ) did not have a metal ring gasket around the center, that seals the cap to the body?
Originally it wasn't really a flat copper washer, it was more like a metal O-ring that seals against the beveled lip on the pump body.
Also...
Unfortunately there's no fool-proof way to tell if the plunger guide is broken with 100% accuracy.
You can pull the center cap, delivery valve and holder off the pump and look in the center of the pump while turning the engine by hand.
The plunger should be rotating at 1/2 the speed you're...
Luckily he does have an Ambac pump, but needs to be sure its free none the less! Lots of posts on here as to how to do it, but filling with acetone or seafoam, lacquer thinner, carb clean... anything like that then let sit a few days.
I like to pull the delivery valve and holder out so you can...
Yup, I once sold an 003 to a guy, demonstrated it and sold to him without batteries. A week later he called and said fuel pumps would run but no crank / no start. Turned out he put batteries in backwards. Nothing blew and the pumps didn't care, but the starter solenoid etc. didn't like the...
Are you sure Guy? looking at the "Colored" schematic, it looks like power ( red line ) goes through MT-4 then through CR1 , to the dead crank switch, then S17, to CB1 then S1 and S2 out to the panel lights.
If the MT4 shunt is in tact, my next suggestion would be to check CR-1 diode on the board in the rear left of the control cube. think it's the 2nd one up from the bottom? If in doubt, turn all the switches on, put main switch in the run position and briefly touch a wire across CR-1, if the fuel...
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