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Don't be afraid of the linkage, just lift up on the ring at the tip of the solenoid plunger, it's just pushing down on the linkage lever coming out of the IP. Then you can move the lever right where it comes out of the pump. You will not hear or feel anything when turning the motor over as far...

Correct, there are tons of threads on here about that alternator. Search for and read-up. Then take the PN's for the alternator and search the web. @Light in the Dark also recently posted the name of a company he has used previously to rebuild these alternators.

Just sent you a PM.

Well, as CB said, there is no reason to give up until you see where you're at. To tell you the truth, 20 year old fuel is better than 4 year old fuel because of the recent Low Sulfur non-sense, but 20 years is a long time. Start by moving the fuel lever, if it moves freely you have 2 options...

The main issue with the 002 is similar to your JD tractor incident. If the old fuel has gummed up the injection pump and the center plunger is stuck, rotating the engine can either break the plunger guide ( on an Ambac M50 pump ) which acts like a shear pin to protect the pump from damage, or...

If you could send us some detailed pictures of the machine, that would help a lot. Especially take pictures of the AC reconnection box and take the side cover off and take pictures inside the AC box. Point the camera upward to get a picture of the underside of the L1 L2 L3 L0 lugs. I would...

Humm interesting... that one is also rated at 500 CCA. Most of the automotive 51R ( used in just about every Honda out there ) I have always used were rated at 550 where Group 51 ( opposite +/- post orientation ) were 500, for some unknown reason. Regardless, 500 CCA is PLENTY for that machine...

Also consider fuel consumption. the 803 will be way more economical than a 15kw or 30kw. However you are right that you may encounter an issue if your hot water tank is heating, your wife is making coffee and heating up a muffin in the microwave, and the AC kicks on! Slight load management may...

If you do adjust IP#1, take a piece of cardboard and hold it vertically at the left end of the exh. manifold to shield the end of the head from the air coming off the fan. Run it under a moderate load for a little while, then take the temps of all 4 cyls. again. You'll never get an accurate...

You may have an issue with that 650 CCA hitting the tab sticking out o the side of the block due to the additional depth. Instead of the 51, I would look into a 51R. I believe the 51R is 550CCA, which is more than enough for an 802! even plenty for an 803. I'm not sure if the hold down's will...

I'm curious it you actually have a problem here or not?? Sounds like it's running fine. Can you send a picture or video? does the trailer happen to have the solid plate ( maybe 18" wide or so? between the longitudinal rails up front, in front of the wheels? I have had 2 trailers where that...

With the machine running I would crack open 1 injector line at a time and listen for a drop in engine speed and an increase in vibration / stumble. If no change is heard, that cylinder may be dead. The cyl closest to the fan appears much cooler but that may only be due to the fan blowing more...

I doubt the IP or 1P painted on the box has anything to do with the machine's mechanical condition, it's probably some other inventory marking etc, but fuel delivery and running on 2 or 3 cylinders is still a probably cause of the vibration. it would also cause you to not reach rated output, if...

I'm waiting for the experts to chime in as well, but I believe Rick is correct. If so, there's really no point.... it would be no different from running the set in the 208V mode and pulling off 2 legs. I think all the "transformer" does is drop the voltage if you're using high voltage input...

The crazy thing is, that switch has the jumpers internal to the switch. You can see the copper legs if you look closely inside the terminal lugs, they are somehow installed from the inside when the switch is manufactured. This switch didn't have any of them installed from the...

As a side note, if you don't find any markings on your K1, I think the reason is that some K1 contactors originally had a plastic cover on the top that covered the wiring connections. If I recall, that cover had the terminal identification numbers printed on it ( A1 A2 11,12 etc.. )

When checking these connections, use your meter and verify all the internal jumpers are in place. All the dark lines on the schematic above indicate internal jumpers such as 4,8 and 12 are all jumped together as are 2,6 and 10. Not long ago I worked on an 802 for another SS member. Someone had...

Not sure if you have the ability or not, but I've done a lot of generator repainting and typically I would buy the green Gillespe 383 green in bulk ( qts, and gallons ) from Rapco parts and spray it with a spray gun, you can get a cheap HVLP spray gun for $25 on line ( can also use a cheap...

Get the spray inside the switch and rotate the switch a bunch of times, then repeat.... only hard part is that you really need to remove the top cover to access the body of the AC select switch.

I'd start off by exercising and cleaning both the AM/VM switch and the AC select switch inside the control cube. What you are describing is a classic case of oxidation buildup in the internal contacts of the switch assemblies, causing incorrect load readings. Lots of folks here recommend Deoxit...