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That is possible, if the volt meter is up around 300+ volts ( when in 120/240 mode ) and you can't adjust it down with the panel knob, that's a sure sign that you smoked 1 or more of the 3 transistors on the VR. If so, you can replace the transistors, or KKlopp makes a super nice, modern, drop...

For now continue letting the IP clean out, but keep an eye on things, without the shut off solenoid you'll have no idea if it's overheating or not. If the hunting continues you may need to make a slight governor adjustment.

Simple, don't idle the machine down... It's supposed to be at 60Hz 1800RPM all the time. You never idle these things down to a "reasonable " level, always 1800 rpm, use the throttle knob to "set it and forget it!" Not sure that's 100% of your issue, but start there and see if everything solves...

In post #10 I'm talking about #5, which is the orange paper thin plastic ring you just installed. BTW, you installed it correctly, that's the way I have always done it. Slide it onto the body of the delivery valve assembly (#4 ) Then stick it into the main body.

Probably still have a film of soft varnish on the plunger components. I'd recommend setting something up to load it with then running it at a progressively increasing load for a few hours or more, with seafoam or some ATF mixed in with the fuel. It should clean up on its own after putting a few...

Being that you have an auto repair background, I assume you already know to put a flex pipe of other flexible connection between your muffler and exhaust pipe... Universal flex pipes for cars work good and are only about $25.

Wow, that seems to defy all mechanical expectations! Looks totally wrong, BUT.... if it ain't broke.... Perhaps it is threaded on an angle intentionally, but it just looks wrong ;-)

Diesel Addict , Chain Breaker and the others all hit it on the head.... you won't have a problem with regards to back pressure, but that long run is going to cause the exhaust to condense in the pipe causing acidic liquid to want to run downhill, so you'll need to either slope the pipe away...

Another thing I've done before cleaning the contacts ( on all switches ) is to blow them out good with an air compressor and a fine point air gun. Some of the machines that came back from Kuwait etc. were full of this super fine pinkish sand/dust. Not sure if it made any difference or not, but...

I'd really suggest you start a new thread as it now sounds like you have an oil pressure problem as well? Possibly due to fuel in the oil? Possibly not?? I would not continue running it in battle short mode if you have a known oil pressure problem!

Best to start a new thread so we can address your fuel problem. For now, NOTE: The 803A doesn't have an injection pump, it has 4 metering pumps, 1 per cyl. The only gasket between the metering pumps and the engine is only there to serve as a timing shim and to keep oil inside the motor, it does...

Essentially yes, that is what would happen if you turned it in. Basically you want to set the screw so that the generator puts out 240V when the adjustment knob on the control panel is approximately centered. However, I wouldn't suggest playing with it unless you're having a problem and unable...

Looks like they went a little heavy with the red encapsulating paint. You may need to pick some of it out with a pin to be able to get the screwdriver to work. At least you can tell no one has fiddled with it at all....

Take a look at your voltage regulator. On the front there might ( depending on mfgr. ) be a small hole with an adjustment pot located inside. That is your coarse adjustment for the VR, the external pot on the control panel is the fine adjustment. It's possible that the coarse adjustment is...

Sounds like bad batteries to me. I know you tried jumping the starter right at the starter solenoid itself, but just for your added information, inside the control panel on the back wall centered there are 2 additional solenoids, one above the other. One is for the glow plugs and the other is...

Right now there's no reason to abandon the outlet just yet and seeing that the 802 /803 sets use a GFCI breaker, I'm willing to be it will work on an 002/003 as well. We just need to see if you have a wiring issue first.

Perhaps you should further explain your setup? Is this a stand alone setup or connected to your house panel? Are the neutral and chassis ground still bonded together at the ground lug on the lower frame? Is it grounded with a dedicated grounding rod, or grounded back through your home breaker panel?

Strange that there wasn't a shim under there. Never seen one without a shim. For pump timing I meant the timing button under the cap where the pump rides on the cam. I would suggest rebuilding the pump, install it per the TM instructions and perform the "pump flow" IP timing procedure to see if...

When in 120/240 mode is sounds like there is something causing a short/overload and lugging the engine to the point that it's bogging down. First thing I would do is remove the top cover to expose the AC select switch body and the 12 wires coming out of the generator head going to the terminal...