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Thats a pretty cool setup with the grom. I'm probably going to sell one of my humvees and pick up a zero. Love the idea of using it for quick trips around town, and the low maintenance. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Is your electric motorcycle one of the zerobikes? Looking at getting one. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Would you mind drawing out a schematic for that?

I just picked up a new starter solenoid from Texas industrial electric and swapped out the old solenoid with it. When I installed the starter back into the humvee and turn the switch to RUN, I get power lights but when trying to start it.... nothing. Doesn't make a sound, so I contacted Texas...

How noticeable was the sound reduction? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/h...ine-id.html?highlight=12555506 This thread should help you determine. Fyi on Lucas additive... i ran it in mine as well and did not notice any smoother start than schaeffer's 7000. I ran one 6.5 using rotella w/lucas, one using delo w/ lucas and one on just...

My 6.5s do the same thing. Although I switched a year ago to Schaeffer's oil and have less racket on cold starts over rotella and delo I've found. My 6.2 & 6.5 both seem to run a bit smoother.

I had no issues with our humvees in Louisiana... Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

So when it leaks, where are the puddles under the truck? I'd clean the case, drive it and get it warmed up, then park it and let it idle to see if there is actual red fluid dripping on the ground from any location Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I think you should figure that out first, which would help determine the next best step. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Did you isolate exactly where the leak is coming from on the tcase? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

A simple solution assuming you have a welding machine on hand, which most people don't and plenty of shops wont screw with doing that for a walk in customer. I wasn't looking for a cheaper option when I ran across this problem. I had bought the NSS part referenced on the A1 configuration like...

Good to know for future reference!

So even though all these are 12v rated switches and you have a reverse light that can handle 12/24v, the switch will still pass the 24v from the humvee to the reverse light regardless of the 12v rating?

Yeah i have come across the non-wired switches, but was unsure if they are 24v and would work. So do these switches not care about what voltage and it just passes any current through it once you push down the ball? The other thing I was wondering when looking at this a while back, is how long...

No cnc required, because doghead posted a part you could use and just cut down to size! It's not the oem part, but don't see a reason why it wont work perfect.

I would highly bet against any hardware store sourcing it any easier than you can from a cnc shop. My logic is because its such a specialized part and why AMG uses those odd ass dimensions coming from someone that designs products is beyond me.... but I see this head scratching logic on car...

This is accurate. If you look in detail at the Parts TM page 99 it shows only one switch (a NSS part# 12338434), but if you look at the diagram, it shows the hole where a reverse switch would go for the M996 ambulance config. If you epay the NSS you will get sellers that mostly don't...

I dont think there is an nsn to it... nor does it show in the TMs. It's probably all part of a single nsn for the switch itself. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Agreed. OEM doors look best, the aftermarket options are ugly imo. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk