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I will address your other questions after we have solved the frequency issue. My first question...are you only running the set at idle? Frequency is dependent on RPM, and it will stay pegged low if you have the set at idle. The voltage regulator/exciter will also not work properly at idle and...

Yep, that one should work fine. It is about the right resistance value, and its 25W power capacity is more than enough. But, you do need 3 of them (you said that there were 2 in an ebay auction). Try looking at www.digi-key.com before you buy the ebay ones...I think you'll find them for about...

Glad I could be of help! The resistors are an option that I didn't put into the video. The adjust the % power meter, % total current meter, and overload trips to accurately reflect the load on the generator. It works fine if you don't install them; the meters just read a bit too high and the...

I have heard that some of them use 10 lead generator heads...if that is the case, then my instructions will not work with those sets. Even if they have 12 lead heads, I can't guarantee that the conversion is exactly the same since I've never had one in my shop. I'd take a look at the set you...

Yep; in the Samurai, into my power supplies, 4.6A on high beam, 2.3A on low beam. I didn't measure the deuce's amp draw, but it should be about 1/2 that.

I purchased a 12 to 24v switching power supply. It powers on whenever the headlights are turned on. I used a relay to switch its power between high and low beams. Seems to work pretty well. It added a few $$ to the cost, but still way cheaper than purchasing the 12v lights new...

Also crushed a few more cars with it in the last few months: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vdCEFoOfy4c http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8K793BZx5U

It has been a while since I did any real work to the Deuce; but I did pick up a new set of LED lights from Beerslayer last week...they were a 5 minute install and a HUGE upgrade over the factory lights. I picked up a couple of sets, and installed one set in my Samurai, too.

No! Don't throw it out...100% of the engine system, and about 95% of the electrical system are interchangeable with the 60hz sets. The 400hz sets are needed for parts to keep the 60hz ones running! Sorry for your luck...but you're not the first to make that mistake. The 400hz/60hz question...

Those label plates are on the ASK, and not on the generator...pretty normal to see both sets of ratings on that data plate. 99.9% sure you have a 400hz unit.

Does your generator have an ASK? I believe every one I have seen with ASK has both 400hz and 60hz labels on it. And, PeterD caught something that I missed. 277/480 is a voltage that the MEP's are not capable of...wonder why yours has that label on it? That is still a wye voltage, so not...

The MEP-004 is either 60hz OR 400hz; your machine cannot be both. Unfortunately, the frequency is determined by the internal workings of the generator head itself and CANNOT be changed without completely swapping out the generator head. Based on the fact that your frequency meter is a 400hz...

What you have is normal; the removable board you are holding in your hand is re-used without modification. The bus bar on the stationary board is the one you cut...many methods can be used! The dremel seems to be the most popular, but any way you can get the bar cut and re-attached without...

It sounds like the voltage reconnection board was removed and individual bars were bolted in its place. Actually not a problem for the single phase conversion. A picture would be very helpful :carnac:

I did one instructor tour at MARF as well; met my wife in Saratoga Springs. I was there in 1997-2001. You?

HHO should be OK in your set; I have run all sorts of crap though my personal MEP's (including centrifuged waste motor oil) with no problems. Somebody might correct me here...but theoretical maximum draft is determined by the density of the fluid you are lifting, the efficiency of the pump, and...

Nuke. I was shimmin' control rods and shiftin' coolant pumps on the USS Buffalo and USS John C Stennis. You? That A/C unit is going to eat up quite a bit of the generator's capacity. Without knowing the specific amp draws of everything, my gut feeling is that the -004 will run everything...

Probably best to start a new topic on this...as it doesn't really pertain to the main breaker issue But the most likely culprit on an -003a is a bad VR board.

My shop compressor is also an industrial 2 stage unit with a 5HP 1800 RPM Baldor motor (NOT one of those phoney 5HP "peak" 3600 RPM motors you see on the cheap compressors). It draws about 23 running amps. An -003a starts it just fine, even while supplying a small amount other shop loads...

I agree this is a pretty good solution; I have completed a few projects with VFD's and they work quite well for speed control and soft starting motors. 3 phase models are typically a lot cheaper than dedicated single phase ones (at least when you're buying them used off of ebay) and nearly...