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I didn't; I sold every one of my MEP's except for a single -002a. Even sold the bedliner spray trailer that I built with an -003a as the power source!
Work has kept me pretty busy the last 6 months or so, but when I get a few more MEP's in my shop I'll continue to tinker with and tweak them...
This is almost certainly a fuel problem...
Normal things to check (even if you do see some fuel available at the IP):
1. Leaks in the fuel supply line (including in the fuel filters)
2. Fuel level in the day tank (includes operation of the lift pumps, solenoid valve, and float switch)
3...
Well, if it produced power before the conversion, and it doesn't now...I have to conclude that it was something that happened when you did the conversion.
If I was in your shoes, I would move all of the leads back to their original locations and move the heavy jumper to take the place of the...
Did it produce power before you did the conversion?
If the freq. meter only goes up to 50hz while you have the start switch in start, then you likely are running the generator at too low of an RPM. Try speeding it up a bit, and then re-flash the field (place the start switch in start with...
Did it work fine before you did the single phase conversion?
Does the generator continue to run after you start it, or does it shut down?
Any warning lights that can't be reset?
Do any of the meters read anything on any of the positions on the switch?
This is good advice; I think your current numbers are a little high though (unless you were showing numbers right before overload trip, or taking power factor into consideration). IMO, most residences have a PF closer to 1, so a 15kw set will only provide about 125A (at 120v) or 63A (at 240v)...
I was at the Steam Up last weekend; well worth the $10 to get in! I'd guess that anybody who owns/drives/likes a deuce will also like the steam up :beer:
Next year for sure; I'll add it on the calendar and see you guys there!
aua
Boy...had I known, I would certainly have taken my deuce there. I already have plans that cannot be changed for this weekend. I'll add it to my calendar for next year, though.
The Pyrometer simply lets you know when you're reaching whatever temp limit you've established for your vehicle. I personally never let mine get above 1300 degrees transient (pre-turbo), although I know quite a few people that allow much higher temps without any immediate problems.
The boost...
You're probably fine with the load you have on it to prevent wet stacking; Ithink that the -005a is the perfect gen for your setup! It will handle some larger surges easily too; if you need to start an big electric motors on top of all of that load it won't complain about it.
I bought my...
The basic way the circuit works is that the thermal watt converter (black box inside the control cubicle) takes an input from the current transformer and drives the gauges; if the ammeter and the wattmeter both are not working, then the gauges themselves are likely not the problem (although this...
Not sure why you are getting zero voltage across L1-L3; especially since your installed voltmeter reads 240 when selected to that position. If that set was in my shop, I would clamp my oscilloscope across the 2 phases and make sure they were 180 degrees out of phase...
I placed 3 resistors...
Looking for a good name for my rig...hoping to score something that makes a good acronym. Bonus points if the name involves zombies.
Right now, I'm leaning toward:
Six Wheeled All Terrain Zombie extermination vehicle: SWATZ
It isn't perfect though...any ideas?
Nice work!
Awkward doesn't begin to describe it! I had to invite a couple of buddies over to maneuver my 3rd members out. In the rear I used a block and Warn Pullzall to lift the chunk out. On the front, I dropped the axle down and used a 10' long piece of 1.75" DOM tubing that stuck out...
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