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Just run it at 24V. It will run twice as fast and use 1/2 the amps. Very common for the pro off roaders to do just that.

When everything is working you will hear the solenoid click when you have the master and key on and push in the clutch switch. It is pretty hard to hear if it is noisy so sometimes pushing it with your hand might be better. No click and the starting will not work.

Thanks Fred.

Nope, do you want to pick it up when it is ready or have me ship it. I am in Kamas, UT.

I am putting it on the the thermostat housing area with either a modified housing or an intermediate plate between the thermostat and the crossover. I need the entire assembly to make sure the measurements for the hoses are right.

Rich, Thanks for your comments. I am actually going into the thermostat area. This will not effect warm up time negatively at all. I need a crossover and a rear plate with the sender in it to complete the kits.

I have an adapter that adds an AN fitting inline between the plate and the sender. I will need one as an example to make sure the measurements are correct. The ideal situation would be someone who is out of commission for a few weeks that can send the drivers side plate to me for verification...

Guys, you may have seen the kits I build for the HMMWVs 6.2, 6.5 and 6.5T which reduces the overall system temps and balances the overall block temps. You will have less fan on time and more power as a result. Longetivity will be improved significantly as well. The side benefit of the kit is...

I just hate having to take it apart when a see through would be quick and clean.

I think the stainers have a lot of possible air leaks too. A simple plastic see through filter in its place would solve that too. They are $1 each so just change them when they look dirty. I am planning on a fuel system review this summer when I get done with all the HMMWV projects I am...

They look good Bravojmc!

Has anybody considered a simple 24V bendix pump? I think it is silly we have to do this priming thing all the time. You could just hook it up to a momentary button, push it for 5 secs then start her up?

So what we have here is a block which does a poor job of evenly flowing coolant to the rear cylinders of the block. This is not entirely uncommon in older American V8s but is particularly bad in these engines. The original 6.2s suffered the greatest not because the cooling issue was resolved in...

Glad all the kits are working for you guys and thanks for the write ups!

Wait, you could try to use a rivnut tool to reseat the rivnut again! It is worth a try.

This sounds like classic tight pedal to me. The pedal needs free play before it engages the Master so that as the fluid heats there is room for the expansion. The pedal free play is what allows for expansion without the brakes binding up. If the brakes were weak or had contaminated fluid...

You might have to drill it out and put in a new nutsert.

I will post pics of my set-up when I get to it on the current truck I am working on. Should be next month.

Well I guess no pics of my arsenal mounted up....

If originality is not an issue I use dome head allens than are nearly flat and not only look good but give you lots of clearance. I have found you can tighten up the hinges to get a better seal on the doors with these too.