Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
Unfortunately as others have stated when you crack the injector line that keeps the cylinder from firing and the force of that firing load will not be transferred to the connecting rod. I still believe the noise to be a wrist pin knock. It has a "heavy" sound to me and that would be down low in...
I went with the Flightcom setup and the expansion unit so I have a four man setup. Very simple and works great. I think this being an aviation setup adds to the cool factor.
Mark
Your M37 is listed as a 1953 model so would not the M1 Garand be the correct rifle? I'm sure the M14 looks great I am just a big fan of the Garand. I own two :)
Mark
That sounds low down and not good. With a stethoscope I bet you will find that noise from the oil pan. It just stated doing that out of nowhere ?
Mark
Sorry about the problem.
The motors rebuild tag lists the rebuild as 2008 so if the block was good enough for a rebuild it would seem it would last for if t was to crack it would have happened in its first life. Sound reasonable?
Mark
Just plain valve covers no markings at all. Can't see any diamonds but it is hard to see in the valley. Would not the block casting numbers tell what engine it is? Is it still possible it is a GEP motor?
Block casting numbers
h217 pass side rear of block
12555506 drivers side rear of block...
Thanks I thought it was all the earlier 6.5s and she runs like a champ and only has 17K on her since the refit. I will look for the diamonds and thanks again.
Mark
Yes but I hope it is a late model version that does not have the cracking problem. Can the turbo setup be installed on this motor. No idea how one could drill out the oil passage inside the casting without putting metal in the block from the drilling.
Mark
I thought I had a 6.2 in my truck but it is a 6.5 and from what I can tell it is the better block. Can someone please confirm? Was hoping for a GEP but oh well. Thank you.
Mark
h217 paass side
12555506
y00091097 020" on tag
Tag says 03apr08 The above is the polymer coating that came...
Only time I do it is when the outside air is below 45 other than that she always starts right up. Either the linkage is a tad stiff or the high idle solenoid is not pushing like it should.
Mark
With mine on the cooler mornings now if I just go to start it after the wait light goes out it will start stumble and die but if I hit the pedal first it starts right up and stays on high idle. May by my linkage is a little stiff and the solenoid can't move it on its own.
Mark
I would hope you are aware of this but once the glow plug light goes off hit the gas pedal once and start the truck. This puts the engine on high idle and you should be good to go. One old trick I used to do was cycle the glow plugs then do it again before starting in the deep cold without a...
Dremels as already recommended will spin far faster than a drill but I don't know are what speeds the gauge will get damaged. At a reading of 4 thousand miles per hour it will take all night to get there LOL
Mark
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!