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well, to be fair, if the toe was out an extreme amount, like several inches and it was really obvious that the tires were aimed in different directions, then the tire with the most traction would pull that way. but in reality if it is just tire wear issue then no 'pull'. toe out will cause...

sorry to disagree, toe is the only adjustment and it won't cause pulling, just tire wear. like I said before, you just need a tape measure and 2 screws to check it. did you check for a flap in the tire? yours sounds like a classic case.

both syncros are on the mainshaft which can never turn faster than the drive shaft, so i doubt anything other than just an old trans failing. chain reaction destruction sometimes follows.

the out of balance would have to be extreme to cause wobble, up to 16 oz out there is no point balanceing them, a flap is several pounds and over 40 will cause the tire to almost leave the road. jack up the front and remove the hub drive plates to see if one or both have a heavy spot.

the studs are very small for the size of the truck and very easy to strip if you use an impact gun and are inexperianced or just plain stupid like the "mechanics" at one of the big truck tire places here in MD

toe in is as simple as a tape measure, mark a line or put a small screw in the tire (really) and measure front and then roll it back and measure there. i seriously doubt that toe would cause shake, are you positive that the flaps were removed from the tire before mounting? that is almost a...

I also would like not only like to see pic, but know the full real story with the restrictions placed on the vehicle

no, not at all, look up M-292

we just wanted to know what 'car' it may have come in. I already know all I need to know about what its original usages were, but a 30 series GM product is not a 'car', nor is an IHC school bus, etc.

i see you have the early IHC rust prevention package

so you are talking about a system with a ram on the drag link or tie rod?

that would not be a problem, it would be an advantage since it would make it steer faster and you no longer need the mechanical advantage.

just sarcasm! the first power steering I built was in 1997 and used a 710, the only box I have ever found that will just barely fit on the outside of the frame. I know the hf54 has been used quite a bit, but I have never been a fan because of the linear control valve. very old school, everything...

then it would not be a torque generator, it would be a control valve. there used to be a steering box that looked exactly like the stock one but had a valve with 4 ports on it right at the top of the box. I have only ever seen one and it was NOS, don't know what it was made to fit, but it was at...

could you explain how this makes steering easier? when you turn the steering wheel with the same relative effort, what makes the tires turn?

I will sell you as many rebuilt 710 boxes as you want for $600, with shipping included and no core.

there was someone on SS a while back that was going to make power steering kits and sell them for around $600. what ever happened to him?

really? what cars did they come in?

yes, you must be right, my time and investment of over $40,000 is just not worth anything! perhaps someone will just give you one.

how are you going to mount it??