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seth in your first post you meant to say 'box' not 'pump'! most will understand, but some may wonder. on the vickers pump, not all fittings are pipe thread. the suction is 3/4 and the 'vent' or 'bypass' is 1/4 both pipe thread. the pressure port is #8 SAE and uses an o ring to seal. (straight...

timing components are all gear driven. starter should spin it at 300 rpm.

no copper gasket here and certainly no o ring! way too much pressure for that. it is just a interference fit.

the higher the number the stronger. 3 marks on head = grade 5, 6 marks = 8, 12 marks = 12

i am sure they are at least grade 8. i would also be sure to use usa made bolts here.

not so. with the wrong switch the lights would stay on until 60 psi which is way past locked up. you need to pull all the drums and fix the problem whatever it is before you drive it. this is a big truck and not to be taken lightly what damage it can do especially if you still have single...

all this is fine, but if you just buy clean fuel you will never need to even check your filters, let alone replace them. 18 years and never a filter change.

Is this the correct gear?

chris, look for the gears. see if you have a part number?? i have 2 gears, $10 each, pm me

I might still be able to find some as well. they were really cheap and they had a min order that was also really low, but I think I got 4 or 5 sets.

I called federal signal and they were happy to sell me the replacement gears. they were cheap also.

do not buy NOS flashers. buy a new recently made flasher. also realize that some parts are surplus for a good reason, they did not pass QC. in this case it certainly sounds like you need a new flasher unit.

it does not come out at TDC. it only comes out when the red tooth is lined up with the pointer. same going back it. it is not a timing mark, but a removal mark. you need to go read how it goes. not trying to be 'mean', but this is something you need to read and understand before doing it. there...

the HH drive gear looks very damaged. did you know how to remove the HH, or did you just rip it out as some have done? changing the whole IP is a complete waste of time, usually. but now that the HH is out how do you know it was in the ONE position that it will come out in? if you can't answer...

if fuel leaks out, lots of air can get in. air will suck into fittings where fuel only makes it damp.

you have an air leak somewhere in the fuel supply and it is having to self bleed every time it starts after sitting. once it is running, shut it off and restart 30 seconds later. i bet it starts right up because there has not been enough time for the fuel to drain back.

I don't think this actually does anything?

there is nothing on top of the plunger, but most likely you need a new HH. make sure you know what you are doing BEFORE you remove it!

what are you calling the plunger? you must remove the plug from the center top and with a WOODEN dowl check for plunger movement when cranking. also the shutoff control must have the little pin in the end propperly engaged in the fuel control block that is around the plunger. with the pin...

either the bottom clip has broken or the plunger is stuck in the up position. both will probably require a new HH.