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so is it running just on the starting fluid? check pressure on final filter housing, 20 to 70 psi depending on rpm

there probably would be no obvious 'scoring' but if you could see any kind of eliptical pattern on the plunger instead of no pattern, just bright reflection, it is bad. worn out. the simplest test for this is to take the HH apart, have it clean but not dry, hold the plunger in your fist for 10...

will it continue to run if you keep the rpm high enough?

there are not 3 timing marks to begin with, only 2. the pump turns at crank speed so the pump is either timed correctly, or it is 180 out when the 2 marks are lined up. if you have 3 marks lined up (one of them under the shutoff cover is NOT a timing mark) it will not run correctly. sounds like...

not that led won't eventually be affordable, but now they still seem to be way over priced. i have hella H4 with 100 watt bulbs. talk about bright.

the engine had plenty of power, 200 hp but over 600 ft lbs torque so it didn't even care about hills. trans had .66 OD, special from fire equipment with that trans. my complaint was the fuel knock, it was really bad, had to wear hearing protection. cat made a silencer kit for the fords that used...

there should be almost NO gap between the ring and the wheel and even all the way around, then you are ok. it is when rust gets going and pushes the ring away from the wheel that there is a problem. also the rings in the rear face each other so you are protected, the fronts not so.

you are going to have to look at the data plate on that trans, but i strongly suspect it is a 1:1 final drive, so not much good to you unless you just want to go no more that 50 mph. as to the engine, i don't know a lot about cummins, but the T is for turbo and the A is for after-cooled. one...

you want a 3060 (not P), but you will get into a hugh expense with controllor, wiring, etc. anywhere from 6k to 8k, plus you will need to move the transfer back. got room?? better to find a 8.3 cummins, it WILL fit.

when you say rebuild it seems to me you just mean patched up. a motor that got that hot cannot be rebuilt or repaired in frame. you will have all kinds of issues like did the cam brngs melt? is the cam still straight? is the line bore still straight? is the deck still flat? all the seals and...

go to http://waterloospecialties.com/ for more info

just thinking about past trucks

remove top cover of trans before removal from truck. 300% easier to pull trans then.

what gear are you trying to put it into? are you giving it time to stop spinning or using a syncro gear to brake it first? if you do brake it with a syncro does it then go into gear (1st or rev easily?) it all makes a differance in diagnosing what is wrong.

there is a reason they are $1. they are not available!

blocks are a bad way to lift that kind of suspension. wait until you really get a load on it!

to be accurate and for better understanding, bypassing the FDC removes the control of the FDC on the govenor and therefore may give more consistant operation of the injection system. if it is sticking, fuel rate may be all over the place, but this does not seem to be a common problem. mostly it...

memphis equipment

just guessing is not going to get you far. get the manual out and go through the trouble shooting section for low power. there are many things it could be and unless you are an experienced diesel mechanic, you will miss most of them. if it starts well I would say the HH is still ok, but running...

you have an air leak. go back and re-do what you replaced, did you use new gaskets?