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you need to check the HH timing. at this point you will have to remove a valve cover to know for sure where the cam is. also sounds like you have a bad 'O' ring on the HH or seal on the booster pump. these are old trucks and will continue to cost until you have everything good.

most of the wiring on a deuce is 14 gauge. overkill, but very safe.

simple, but the side markers must have 2 wires and not be grounded by the housing. run 1 wire to the power wire of the turn bulb and the other wire to the power wire of the running lights. the marker will then be grounded through the turn bulb so marker will light and when turn bulb is on there...

the thermostat HAS to be there. otherwise the water will have no idea which way to flow. overheating is a sign of leaking head gaskets among other things.

fuel turned up = 200 HP

for what you are doing, you are gonna want a 8.2 cummins and yes it will fit.

looks like you may have no real problem but remember, as the harness goes forward it is constantly diverging, and how it fits and how it is routed depends greatly on how the new harness was made up. in the end everything should go to the correct place and still be protected. so the route of the...

the first thing you need, really need, is fuel going back to the tank in the return line. then it will start.

there are several front harnesses and they differ in how they are routed and if you had an alt or gen and if you had electronic turn signal flasher or even no turn signals. unless you are positive the new harness is exactly the same you may have other issues to solve as well. usually the old...

turbo and engine oil are the same and controlled by the same valve. piston cooling is the other and it opens at 15 psi so there is no oil to pistons at idle to improve oil pressure.

maybe fuel in oil??

you may be able to clean the pick up screen through the drain plug hole, but straight 50wt oil may be the only way to get more pressure if wear is the issue. always check your gauge with another quality gauge just in case. how noisey is the engine when it is started after sitting??

not entirely, no need to mark the injectors, they are all the same, just the fitting on #6 for the return line that is different. you will have to remove the rocker arm assymbly and all the push rods. when done you will need to adjust all the valves. don't skip resurfaceing the heads and...

that is a lot of oil so it will be easy to see where it comes from after you pressure wash it and take the fan belts off so you can run it with no air blowing. (not drive it)

it really scares me how many people who really don't understand what they are doing, are working on brakes. brakes are pretty important you know?

run it in the can before you bother to put it in the truck. any engine in a can is a complete unkown unless YOU rebuilt it. it could just as easily be a core motor.

what you describe would be from too much fuel, something a failing IP would not do. you really need to get a pyrometer on it to make any kind of conclusion about power / fuel rate.

there are no 'O' rings associated with pumping fuel, but as the HH piston is solely lubed and cooled by fuel, no fuel is very hard on them.

absolutely no need to do that. pressure is pressure, air or oil, probably electric sender that is not matched to the gauge. if you really want to know put a mechanical gauge on. 10 psi per 1000 rpm is more than enough.

if it was a stream, the injector was bad or the pressure was way too low.