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don't 'get lazy' or forget to resurface that flywheel. you cannot put a new disk against a worn flywheel. it will slip.

forget about it having 'low miles', you never get to know the truth. speedos and tachs are swapped, condition is everything. if it has no blowby when hot and no leaks, that may be the best you can hope for.

NO. and by the way, a snorkle is not to increase air in the first place, it is to get up above the dirty air near the road.

salty? hardly, compared to new wheels and tires! well anyway, 5th behind a multifuel is always a 3053 which is overdrive, even if not much. no other trans will fit without serious redesign of the truck. are you sure you really want a m-36? got a parking lot to turn it around in? anyway the EF 9...

it's the same as the m35a2 you took out.

A2 and A3 are wired the same. Power from the heater circuit breaker on the firewall goes to the 'pole' of the switch (probably the center term in most switches that are single pole, double throw, this one is also center off). The resistor goes from one 'throw' to the other, and power to the...

classic sign of leaking head gaskets. sometimes don't leak until run under a load like a hill. get a chemical tester and the blue fluid will turn yellow if combustion is in radiator.

I didn't realize the switch was made by Lucas! You need a new switch, 1 hour is way too long.

Thanks Chris, I am really getting senile??

orren, see post #103, it is now correct. Another way is that when you are positive you are at TDC of the compression stroke of #1 cyl and have the IP timing mark lined up, there should be a tooth lined up with the little cast pointer in the shutoff window. If this was a running engine, the next...

No that would not work at all, you would be out of time 180° at the HH. Now I am wondering if I remember how many teeth are on the HH, so 60° may be wrong. My brain is getting rusty, I'll look it up tomorrow to be sure.

You have to know the #1 cyl is on compression stroke, TDC. (both valves loose, #6 valves at overlap) Then line up the timing pointer on the IP (under the cover with 4 bolts). Now turn the engine backwards 20° exactly. (my bad earlier, it is 20°) That puts the plunger at the bottom of it's...

With #1 at TDC and the timing pointer on the IP lined up, turn the engine backwards exactly 20°. The HH should now come out, but do not apply force. edit: my bad it really is 20°!!

no, it's far better than nothing!

Maybe not oil, but some high pressure lube. There are 2 follower pins mounted on 4 tapered roller bearings and there is high pressure developed as you may imagine. It's hard enough to steer without these failing.

We are talking about supply pressure TO the injection pump. Actual injection pressure is way more than 1500 psi, almost double.

I doubt they make one suitable for any big trucks. The Waterloo OD kit is still the most cost effective way to get OD and have the ability to use the transfer case to evenly split all the gears

It is not the lift pump, it is the engine driven, gear type, booster pump that pressurizes the HH. Yes this can be used as an indicator of the filter condition, but I use clean diesel only and never have I replaced or even checked the filters. They only get dirty from dirty fuel.

OP says non turbo, so it would be a slug anyway you do it, but no smoke on non turbo means it is getting very little fuel. fuel pressure gauge should be 0 - 100 psi, at max rpm should get around or past 70 psi

you don't really say why you changed the HH. did it run just the same before? if so it may have been wrong then also. also remember the red tooth is NOT a timing mark, just a removal indicator, and a way of knowing where the HH is in it's 360° rotation. (it turns at camshaft speed)