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injection pump question m35a2

Adrian A

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I have my injection pump disassembled and I have this little nozzle button that fell out. It has a little hole that looks like it would spray or restrict fluid. The photo shows the fitting in the hydraulic head that i thought it may have come from. Although i really have no idea. Do you know? The tm is not clear enough for me. I don't see it any where.
 

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phil2968

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That is why it did not run. A common problem. There should be a three legged clip that holds it to the bottom of the HH, right under the spring. When they fall off the plunger in the HH does not move enough to build pressure. Find the clip.
 

doghead

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To confirm this, show a picture of the HH shaft end.
 

gimpyrobb

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I did, I don't right now. Ambac is your best bet, let me see if I can find another thread that might help with info...
 

gimpyrobb

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Pretty sure there is a minimum order. If you get extras, ill buy some, not sure if that would help or not. Let me know.
 

Adrian A

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So.... I installed the pump, lined up the timing marks and cranked it. Fuel is coming out of the high pressure injector lines when I cracked them open. But, it wont start. Do I nurse it with ether to get it running?
 

gimpyrobb

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I have had to give a small whiff of starting fluid to get her to pop off on a few trucks. If you have to do it every time, you might have the HH 180* out of time.
 

Adrian A

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Ive got this thing so it will fire up, but it wont continue to run. It seems like the governor is turning it off. I have the engine at tdc, the pointer lined up on the injection pump shaft, and the hh is off one tooth to the rear. This is what the manual says. I get oil from the injector lines. Maybe I need to bleed more. I did dismantle the entire pump. I took pictures of every assembly as I went. I had no fasteners left. The pump makes sense to me as to how it works. I think it is right. Maybe i just need to bleed it more I hope. I'll try more tomorrow. Any other ideas?
 

gimpyrobb

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Retainers showed up 2 days ago, thanks.
I have usually just needed one whiff of starter fluid to get it running again. It starts on its own after that. Did you get everything back 100%? Maybe the HH is out of time by 180*?
 

Adrian A

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How would it be 180` out if all three timing marks are lined up? I can understand the engine being 180 out. I have to rotate the pump two full revolutions to get all three marks to line back up. Am I missing something?
 

m-35tom

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there are not 3 timing marks to begin with, only 2. the pump turns at crank speed so the pump is either timed correctly, or it is 180 out when the 2 marks are lined up. if you have 3 marks lined up (one of them under the shutoff cover is NOT a timing mark) it will not run correctly. sounds like you understand the indicator mark is just that, and is 1 tooth to the rear when the rest are timed. but this still alows for the crank to be out 180.

so if you have 2 timing marks lined up and the red tooth showing 1 tooth to the rear when #1 is at TDC compression stroke, ie #6 valves have clearance, that should run, but there are several little pitfalls. classic not wanting to idle, but running over, say, 1000 rpm is worn out HH piston. did this truck ever run when you had it or is it new to you? since the bottom cap was off the piston, that may indicate it stuck, and that may have been from dirt or lack of fuel. either would have been deadly to the piston and bore.

if the booster pump is working, and it almost always is, it will self bleed quickly as long as you have removed the bulk of the air from the primary filters.
 
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