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As far as I can see there is nothing special about R16. Just a 1 ohm, 5%, 1 watt resistor with a couple of wire lugs crimped onto it. Should cost ~$0.50 to make.

I assume you mean R16 is missing?

Will post up what I find regarding the relay once i get an inverter to tear into. A friend has 3 dead ones I can dig into. He should be stopping by as soon as this weekend.

The black relay cube on the top circuit board is the one that changes the inverter from 120 to 120/240 operation. In 120 mode it puts the two inverters inside it in parallel. I've had the inverters apart but didn't attempt to locate the K6 & K8 relay. Having those two signals from P/J 17 go to...

Good to hear!

Don't attempt it. You will destroy the inverters!

I used a reducer and a short nipple to use it. I cut a slit in the wall of the flex pipe to make it easier to take it on and off. Hose clamp to secure it. The same piece of flex pipe exhaust is used on my 831's. All depends on which set I need to run in my garage.

Di you have good battery(s) in the set? Are you using the electric starter or pull starting it? If you have batteries in it the with S1 in RUN but not running depress the Reset button on the A2 fault monitor and see if all the lamps illuminate. They should. Two circuits can cause K12 to...

When I poked around back there in my new to me 802 there was evidence of past rodent damage to the wires on the big terminal block in there. Damage to the insulation had been "repaired" with what looked like calking or RTV.

When starting be sure to hold the S11 switch in START long enough for oil pressure to build. If you release S1 too quick it will fault possibly causing what you are seeing. Sounds like your set is detecting a fault and tripping the K12 relay. When you have the problem drop down the access...

It's not the same. The one for supporting a conventional gen head swap has a number of other functions besides the task of governing engine speed. The SLC100 replacement varies the engine speed based on load applied so that the inverter is supplied with adequate power from the PMA. As I...

Inverters can occasionally be had off of ebay. A buddy of mine picked one up a couple of weeks ago. I tested it for him and it worked perfect. You have another option if you strike out finding an inverter. That's to remove the PMA and install a conventional generator head on the engine. I've...

F03A125V30A is the part number from the -24P TM.

Looks like it's rated for 200 amps Bendix 52-12 Specs See page 6

Sorry, missed the order minimum. They are also available from Digikey Electronics in smaller quantities.

I did a bit of searching and Essentra makes one that's nearly identical to the OEM version that Guy mentioned above. They have them for $0.11 each. ---> Essentra Ratchet Rivet An alternative should you strike out finding the FASTEX version.

OK, now you need to see if the set is trying to flash the field. Measure the DC voltage across the voltage regulator terminals 5 & 6. You should get ~ 7.6 volts DC when the set is flashing (S1 in the START position with set running) If you get way less than that or zero then you may have an...

Agreed, do what DieselAddict said about manual starting. I've forgotten and not done that and just about yank my arm out of the socket. If if didn't shut down it's likely there was a fault and power was already removed from the GC by the fault relay. Have seen this many times. Let me know...

Looks like the PN for the lower spring is Yanmar 114250-66200

When you start it hold S1 on the START position after it starts. See what voltage you get. Then realase S1 to Prime/Run and see what voltage you get. Post up your findings.