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let me take a look... red or amber?

I'd do the JB weld... I have fixed blocks with JB weld in the past and yes it worked.

if you want a Detroit experience get a gama goat. that will cure you...

You mean this one? https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-low-profile-transmission-jack-60240.html

How many do you need? They are not in the best of shape... I would also need to make sure I have not thrown them away...

Next question is how hard is it to get the bed off?

How do you take the trans out?

Has anybody dropped the transmission? Reading the TM it talks about a lifting bracket... is it poasble to hook that up with the trans in the truck? This sure would make it simple to use a chain hoist.

Being a diesel engine... there's carbon in the engine oil and it will be black. This is not black and too clean... so its coming out out of the trans...

I know seals are cheap... BUT getting to them...

I have oil leaking our of the bell housing drain plug. It's oil from the trans I believe. How screwed am I to fix this one? Thought? Sympathy? Should I just junk the truck? There is no way I am equipped to drop a transmission.

There is a grab handle on the A1 trucks. I would like to add something like this to my truck. Is there any leads and if not can someone please post a better picture of the handles below. Also I have A1 sun visors. I believe there is an access hole above where the visor mounts to the cab to...

Motoring plublic beware... I have insurance on the truck.... :)

I got them from Big Mike's motor pool. They are easy to find if you search for "Packard connectors" I saw them on ebay and amazon as well as the electronic supplies places. You can also look them up with the MS number... I used 14 gauge connectors. Link below. You have to cut the terminal...

Been replacing the Packard connectors... They are all cracked and rotted... I also changed out the right rear tail light holder weldment. The one that can on the truck was one for a wench. It was driving me crazy. Not that it wasn't functional it just wasn't right and look off... I also...

I like these have have never had an issue.. I do not like to solder splice wires as I have seen many many splices crack and you will have an issue. These butt connectors also also waterproof. I have repaired many many aircraft flight control test cables and the only repairs I see fail have been...

The driveline shop installed straps on the one u joint they installed. I wanted to new bolts of the other joint. Thought straps where a thing. What torque do you install and do you use blue or red loctite?

Well I need some new U-joint bolts... and I am having a heck of a time finding them. Now the military uses a break away type and I have only found some on the e auction place and the seller wants like 14 bucks each.... I aint doing that. I am looking for the Spicer 5-73-109 that is used with...

Pin "S" should be the block out input.

I was installing the drive shaft. I wasn't too sure how tight to make the bolts and I stripped one. I sure hope it was the bolt and not the yoke. Man I am not a happy camper. I know why they military went to the bolts with the head that breaks off. I wish I could find those.