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For your own use, you might be better off making a cable with the correct end on it, rather than trying to find something already made.
Mine I have what looks like a computer power cable that plugs into the NATO slave port in the truck. I think it's supposed to be for some type of battery...
might be a little confusion here, but the fan clutch is a dead end system. It doesn't have to be purged of air to function.
Over time the air does get purged, because the fluid comes in and compresses the air, and the air gradually makes it's way up the hose to the cadillac valve as the fan...
The earlier trucks (A0/A1) the diff mounting bracket is in the way of the seals. First time you replace the seal with the diff out, you grind back enough metal from the brackets so as to not interfere with doing it in the future.
Later trucks it can be done with the diffs in the truck no...
I definitely like mine.
I have cracked the housing a couple times when I had the lights on and drove much too fast into standing water (1' deep or more with enough speed that it was well over the roof of the cab) but at $40ish per housing it's still cheaper than a quality LED assembly with...
Checking multiple spots and the radiator hoses would be a good indication if the thermostat is opening properly.
I've also seen what people thought was overheating/boiling coolant was actually blown head gasket putting combustion gasses/pressure into the cooling system.
Have you verified any of these temps using a laser thermometer? These are notorious for the gauges to be inaccurate, or wiring issues with high resistance causing incorrect readings.
Easiest thing to do is get a pressure gauge and thread it into the end of the fitting with the bleed screw.
The fan clutch just needs pressure, not flow. It's a dead end system, so slow flow will just make it take longer to disengage; not prevent it from doing so.
HMMWVs have a 6 digit serial number, H1s have a 17 digit VIN.
Modifying the HMMWV serial to 17 digits is an illegal modification if not done by the government agency in charge of such things.
For automatic transmission use, DEX VI is 100% backwards compatible.
Everything else should stick with DEX III (transfer case, power steering)
Or just keep everything DEX III for simplicity sake.
If I had to I might run the engine, from dead cold, maybe 3-5 minutes at most. Probably wouldn't do it more than 1 minute if possible. Definitely wouldn't use much throttle.
It might be safe for longer periods of time than that, but the fact is running it for 1 minute, then letting it cool for...
I probably should have mentioned the first picture is about 3 years after I painted it with RAPCO. I sprayed it using a cheaper power sprayer (wagner) and then touched up places with rattle cans after that dried.
I spoke with Rapco a couple years ago when they changed suppliers for their...
One advantage of RAPCO is they sell rattle cans of paint as well as gallons, so it's pretty easy to touch it up later.
CARC is a much tougher coating, so doesn't need touched up or fixed anywhere near as much as paint does.
pictures probably won't show you what the colors look like in real...
The center drag link is thinner than the A2 version, so if you use the A2 idler and pitman arm you have to add a spacer (just a thick washer really) to the castle nuts to make up the extra length of the threads.
Not sure the differences in the tie rods
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