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Dave, have you read this yet? It is by Tom from Alfa. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/early-deuce/17023-hydramatic-heaven.html

HAHAHAHA! That last pic had me on the floor you crazy Canuck! A big friggin congrats on a job very, very well done. Totally green with envy way down here. I go to sleep every night thinking about all my "firsts" and you just made it even worse. I'll bet it's pretty surreal for you. Tom at Alfa...

Sorry about that, this thread has taken a bit of a back seat the past few weeks. I am currently restoring a very busted up Austrian antique .58 cal muzzle loader and I have more work on the way. But once it's all finished I'll be able to get my new flexplate, install the 700r4, get my Np231...

Like A Boss: PM sent regarding your M135. :beer:

My comment was not aimed towards members of SS, but towards another board. Apologize if I came off so harshly, was not my intention. FWIW, had my M211 came to me with the original powertrain it would have stayed original too.

Good heavens, that is YOUR truck and you do what YOU want to do with it. This is not the G503 forum. Great group of guys, but if you use the color paint be prepared for a flogging. Some of those guys should have been dairy farmers, they have way too many cows. From the factory all G749 trucks...

:cookoo: rofl

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/auxillary-equipment/11452-average-towbar-length.html http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/58135-does-anyone-have-tow-bar-dimensions.html As for the GMC's bumper pin holes, mine measure to 1.036 on my caliper. So they are 1" pins. If that is what you were referring to...

You may be thinking of the M35's, Tim. The GMC's all have mechanical linkage for the transfer IN/OUT shifter rod.

Your sketch looks familiar! Actually I think yours will look a lot better. I can see a HMMWV motor rockin your bobber. Are you going to go 4 door? I think that would look really nice!

Sweet! Brake Systems Inc still stocks rings, bearings and other parts for this compressor model. The GMC compressor is model N-4119-W. He said the parts book he found it in was old and very dusty. :lol:

If anyone needs stencils of the compressor gaskets, they will be sent to your mailbox free of charge.

Now the crankshaft can be pulled out. Note the semi circle cutout which aids in removal of the crankshaft. You will have to play with it a bit, but this picture should help show the orientation of the crankshaft for removal. Like so..... Next take the compressor head to vice and very sturdy...

Next remove the 6 nuts securing the head to the cylinder body. Pry the head off with a screwdriver. Head removed. No, don't do what I did and put your hand over the cylinder while turning the crank really fast. It sucked my hand down so hard it almost made a circular cut on my palm. :beer...

As before, each paragraph corresponds with each picture below. From left to right. I disassembled, cleaned and reasembled this compressor last year since it came to me seized up from sitting for so many years outside. A hone job and a little rust removal had it back in action, the bottom end...

A 5lb hammer is sufficient, anything more than that and you just put huge dents in the hub and axle flange. Put a bucket under there, gear oil will likely be inside the bearings. The old cork keyway gaskets like to deteriorate after several years.

Which driveshaft is there? E or D? GMC 6X6 MECHANICALS Driveshaft E will move the truck as it powers the middle tandem (axle). Driveshaft D will not move the truck, it just powers the pillow block for the rear tandem. Also. Are the rear outputs on the Tcase moving at all? If not, i'll bet...

Check the differential levels too! I paid $400 for mine shipped from Tucson to Yuma. 250 miles or so, on a 25' goose neck.

I agree, this would be a pretty easy argument for any halfway decent lawyer. And if you can afford to even buy a HMMWV, I am sure lawyers are well within your pocketbook as well. Keep trying DMV offices, someone will title it. Jack at Jacks Goverment Surplus in Tucson can probably point you...

The steering knuckle will throw the grease outwards, but will pick it up whenever sharp turns are made at the wheel. Just stuff as much as you can in there and you will be more than fine. The TM calls for pumping grease into the zerk fitting at the bottom of the knuckle every 1000 miles which is...