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Just make sure the 3rd started mount and bracket are there and tight. Otherwise very bad things will happen.

I think the above post is correct. You have narrowed it down to the starter motor/solenoid. Good job.

I pulled the holder out of its original packing this morning Mark. It is going to work perfect. Once I actually have something I will post pictures. 1973 Honda 350four. I got it back in 1990, used it a little and moved onto muscle cars so interest got lost. I purposely didn’t mess with it once...

Nice visiting with you as well Joe. The Cowdog got to pull a M101 about 200 miles over the weekend taking Colton one of my old motorcycles. He needs a project now that online college is done for the semester and his internship got canceled. That truck loves to go down the highway at about 64...

Look at the wiring diagram in the appendix of the -20 TM. It has the pin out for the CUCV part. You need to find the pin out for your engine.

It reads like the truck has sat for a while. You have already done all 3 filters in the fuel system. Once you verify the intake pump is working. Pulling the pump out of the tank and looking at the intake screens would be a good idea. I had a similar issue a few years ago and my intank pump...

I totally agree. No positive to keeping it hooked up.

Have you found the Technical Manual section of this website yet? If not, scrolll to the top of the page and look to the right. There is a link called TM. Open it. Then find the CUCV part. Open it. Then open TM’s for the CUCV. The manual ending in -20 has a wonderful 70 some odd page...

Stock GM metric starter bolts are available. I get mine from amazon normally. I’m not really sure what you are asking for.

If the starter engages as soon as you hook up the batteries then you are left with most likely two things. The small wire on the solenoid is touching the big wire also on the solenoid. Or since it worked fine before but is now stuck on. Your solenoid Could be fused internally. This happened to...

The front harness is a tremendous work out. All of the bolts are too high to get if laying flat and I can’t sit all the way up under the truck. So it turns into one long continuous crunchy.

Fuel or air. Fuel wise a clogged fuel pick up sock in the tank, clogged fuel filter on the firewall and then a clogged fuel return check valve on the Injection Pump are the easiest to check. Air filter and making sure a birds nest isn’t in the intake manifold are about all you can check.

If you pull your air filter canister out you will see all the wires around the starter. 74B is supposed to be the wire going to the solenoid to activate the starter. 74A is supposed to go into the fuel cutoff solenoid that the other end of 74B goes into. The other end of 74A is the red button...

Yes, as Rich wrote. Give us a town. Maybe one of the dozens of Texas members will be nearby.

I had the same reaction a few years ago when I had to get another front harness. They are out there at much better prices. It just won't be from your first page of Google search results I found.

You have created a jungle gym for your truck. Cool! looks awesome Rich.

Runk. Glad to see you post. I still try and think of a way to talk you out of those Gasser mud flaps.

Look at the bottom of this listing of TM’s : http://www.jatonkam35s.com/jatonkaM35sTMdownloadpage.htm

The 1964 published TM’s cover the Gasser engine.

There are seals on the throttle shaft that are known to start seeping. Several ways to look at it: Just keep driving and checking to see if it gets worse. Which a lot of people do but is not the safest idea in the world. Change the throttle shaft seals with the IP on the engine. People...