Search results

The infrared trick is nice, but a SIMPLE way can often be had by a simple squirt bottle filled with water. Wet down each exhaust leg, and see which ones take longer to 'dry out'. Btw, for the money spent, QUALITY bio-diesel works as a much better fuel system cleaner. It often works TOO good...

Another good reason to put the switch on the ground side is that you can run a 24v solargizer (or something of that nature,) to keep your batteries fresh and fully charged, and still keep them disconnected from the system.

Actually, for towing a deuce, just stretch the tow bar out longer if you are having the front tires drag/turn wrong. Works every time for me so far. And yeah, where are the pictures! Sounds like another nice truck was added to the fleet, congrats!

Wow, that IS cool news! Did she mention that they have to be permanently mounted? I thought I remembered reading that part. But if those two things will get my 920 registered as an RV, I am ALL OVER THAT!

Problem is this... Drivers of vehicles with air brakes that don’t otherwise qualify as a commercial vehicle. Even though a vehicle is equipped with air brakes, it doesn’t automatically mean the driver must have a CDL. If the vehicle doesn’t meet the criteria listed under Types of vehicles...

I will have the CDL part for driving, I just don't want to pay all the big $ for registration and insurance! And if you can get it as a RV toter type setup, you pay very little, and can still get almost full usage from the truck!

Yeah, definitely better to have the RV part, just figuring out how to make it happen and making it easy to do it.

Yeah, but the LEO's only care about what the mfg gross weight was. And it doesn't matter what you register it as, the GVWR says it should have a CDL. But I do know what you mean. If you can get it setup with the SF-97 having the correct info, AND (the BIG and here...) do the work to it BEFORE...

WA will still most likely want a weight certificate for that. And I am not sure you can loose enough to be under the 26k part of it. I have a hard time with them letting that one slip by. But if you get it past them, let me know how you did it!

Thanks Dale! I sprayed some stuff in mine today and it works again! (yesterday it decided to NOT turn,,,, argh.)

If the bottom falls off, then most likely NO SOUND.

Yup, this is what I do. It won't hold air in the system, but holds it enough while it bleeds out to find the leak.

Good job Josh! One down, now to replace the fuel pump. Btw, it is worth pulling the pump to investigate it before you end up replacing it. Might be something as simple as the entire bottom section FELL OFF! Search on here and you will see what I mean.

Ha, funny that I thought that strattec key sounded familiar. I had to replace the ignition in my old cj5 a few times. I doubt I will be going for a freightliner. And if the AM General series run the same key, that is good enough for me for now. And thanks for the part number Lance! Funny part, I...

Thanks guys, exactly what I was looking for!

I know, old thread, but are all the 915/916/920 keys the same? And if so, is that the correct key code?

I have been trying to talk Danielle into doing just that! Kind of limits the resale value a little though.... And Josh, NO WAY! I would never get all the sand out of it after you had it! lol

Sorry, uploaded the wrong pictures. Deleted and fixed the post.

Ok, this is for Scott who asked, and a few others who thought they would like to see it. I hooked my 5th wheel up to the 818 again, and took pictures this time. Funny, the trailer doesn't look so big when it's behind that truck! Btw, the trailer is 37' long.

The 5 tons that have multiple tanks have the selector valves that switch both the main lines and the return lines at the same time. There are electronic solenoid versions of these as well (even have it switch the fuel send with some of those if you wanted.) Back flushing the nasty fuel with...