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since you are replacing the wire, you should start from scratch with the resistance. most heaters have a resistor so the ignitor coil is close to 12 volt. you can measure the resistor and using ohm's law calculate everything else. resistance of the wire will probably go up as it gets hot. is...

every system has its advantages and disadvantages. the air assist system does make it easier to steer, but uses lots of air and the system cannot keep up, and it is only an assist. several of my kits have gone to A3's to replace it. the kia system that boyce has uses a belt driven pump and is...

the issue i see is what happens if / when a hose fails? and don't say it probably won't happen. there is always a possibility. if you are going this route, at least keep the original box and add a reaction valve for the steering assist cylinder.

just re weld it, or replace the nichrome wire by measuring the diameter. i got mine on ebay from somewhere in eastern europe. looks like you may have a very old heater, i would find one from 1985 or newer.

ok, i couldn't remember, is it the 5 ton that has the odd bolt pattern? the 3053 bolts right up to a std sae #3 then without the adaptor ring yes?

i think the 5 ton trans is a non standard sae#2, you can just use the 3053 trans, it is more than capable and less to adapt

if you don't know the ratios, you should not be even worrying about it. agreed it is not as accurate, but .05% error is not too bad.

too complicated, this is the simple version. rpm = (168 * mph * ratio ) / radius mph = ( rpm * radius) / ( 168 * ratio)

seems to me the question has been answered over and over again. but as heath says there is no real big differance just as there is no big differance in power. the LDT is set at 9 psi boost and the LDS at 14. that takes more fuel, and fuel = power. any good LDT turned up to 14 psi will run as...

if i was going to repower anything, the multi would be the LAST choice i would make.

missed that, ok on shut down but there is a pretty good flow from the return so timing it just right will be difficult. as for starting, how long to run it before it is warm enough to switch fuels? in 5 minutes a lot of diesel will flow into the main tank leaving the 'starting' tank low.

if you have 2 tanks you have to switch the supply AND the return. if you don't the tank will quickly be drained into the other tank which may be too full to hold it. valves are cheap and easy to get. google anderson brass in SC

if you want more power (HP) just run them at higher rpm since the formula for HP involves rpm and torque. and that is just what the military did since the engine in its most reliable form, low rpm, did not make enough power. hence the higher rpm of the LDS. but it's not gonna last as long before...

different cam, pistons, fuel rate, rocker arms maybe, turbo flow, etc. in reality i have had both and cannot tell the difference between them if the LDT is turned up to the same boost as the LDS. it was never meant to be a high output engine, and it was never meant to turn more than about 2200 rpm.

steve is right, the A2 and A3 cabs are different, but it may not matter for what you are doing

the engine is still a LDT, use that mark and turn the fuel down as it will be too high.

yes it pumps water. it is for use with the engine off. i have seen some on ebay recently for $800 to $1000

get bill of sale, get registration from alabama, get MD title..

different bolts yes, but same size so roughly the same torque. dependent on grade, plated or not, etc.

you need a new axle with splines on both ends. i have 'thought' about making a viscous coupling for the rear driveshaft.