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there are several companies who will gladly insure it, j.c. taylor is one but with historic tags there are going to be restrictions. if you don't want to go by the rules then get commercial tags and pay the high price of using it for what you want.

don't forget to have the heads resurfaced. no matter what anyone thinks, they will need it. it may only take .002" but it will make a big differance in how long this lasts. you are using the latest one piece gaskets?? replace ALL freeze plugs, on top of the head, both ends of the head and on the...

it is my understanding that the wheel bearing is part of the system, and at $800+ each, seems like upgrading an A2 might run in the $10,000 range!!

you can get a new one for $50, not worth fooling with a used one.

the 'tail housing' on the trans is only about 2 inches long. hard to imagine it is cracked, but in any case almost any mil truck place should have one. the truck does not look rough at all, just normal

still sounds like a restricted line etc, unless air is escaping elsewhere. have soldier #2 listen for air leak.

now that i have more of the story, it sounds like there is a restriction in a line, like maybe ice?? it has been cold! the real question is, is there a leak or is the steering system still functional.

there is a chemical tester that will look for exhaust in the radiator, most shops should have something like that. you can also test the rad for flow yourself the old school way, remove the upper and lower hose, hold your hand over the lower outlet and fill the rad. when you remove your hand the...

the thermostat must be in for correct coolant flow, you cannot run the engine without it. it is not a simple thermostat, it is a three way valve. how do you know it overheats?? when it won't restart does it respond to starting fluid? does it crank at 300 rpm? we need more info, it may not be...

the factory flasher is solid state and does not care how much wattage is attached (within reason) it will flash the same rate. sounds like you have a grounding issue and the front turn bulbs may have been grounded thru the marker circuit until you turned them on removing that path. do they flash...

hank, you jumped the correct wires and they have nothing at all to do with the turn signals, that is only the side markers. the front turns are i believe a separet bulb. if your rears flash your flasher is good.

the issue is that even 'if' the bearing is good now, it won't be shortly.

what you have is not minor damage, it is MAJOR DAMAGE and is now scrap metal.

120 HP and 231 ft lbs, just a guess, let us know. you going to test it up to 2800 rpm?

the headlight switch will not handle the additional current, you must use a relay for the additional set, but what is the point? you can get 100 watt H4 bulbs that are blindly bright.

well the bottom line is: read the manual, fix the problem, don't drive it until it is completely fixed and the entire system has been throughly inspected.

before you screw up the HH, you need to check all the filters and put clean fuel in. also since your in tank pump is not pumping you should fix that as it will help greatly with bleeding.

the deuce has 24 volt system so it has a 12 volt 'low' battery with negative going to frame and a 12 volt 'high' battery with neg going to pos of the 'low' battery. i.e they are in series. you need two batteries in series to jump it. frame neg to frame neg and 'high' batt pos to other 'high' bat...

exactly right and many people miss this. the multifuel, even turned up only has so much power. with my .69 OD gear set you are running as close to that limit of power as i think you would want to be. my OD gives you a final drive ratio of 4.64, the 5.41 set gives you a final ratio of 4.21 with a...

strange, i have had deuces for almost 20 years and never had a bulb burn out. critical is to have the idle speed set correctly and have good mounts on the light assymbles. a 12 volt bulb will burn out just as fast as a 24 volt one if you give it the same environment.