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first, please stop writing in black text, it is almost impossibly to read. the fuel rate adj you show has nothing to do with adjusting the rpm. you are going to introduce more problems fooling with that. pull the shutoff cover off and be sure it will go to higher rpms by moving the govenor...

when pushed, the clutch pedal should always go to the floor. and it should always have 1" free play at the top before you feel it start to push the clutch in.

do you mean it is in the future for you? it has been available for almost a year now, special price for SS members, see classified ad. website shows higher price by about $400 tom

i have a kit that solves this issue, but it costs a little more than dw58's idea. as an extra added bonus it makes driving a deuce a real pleasure.

i don't see why you would have to use new bolts, if they were never over torqued. of course you don't know if they ever have been so new is just safer. i would try memphis equipment

yes

testing the HH is very easy, remove the two keepers so you can pull the plunger out. hold the plunger in your fist for 5 to 10 seconds. if it will go back in it is bad. yes it fits that closely. also if the surface of the plunger has elongated swirl marks that indicates excessive wear, it should...

unless the selenoid coil itself shorted. bottom line is 40 plus year old stuff fails.

my money is on the HH plunger sticking. this would account for almost 100% of your problems. the fuel system is so simple that many people over think it. if you have fuel pressure in the final filter relative to the rpm and it still stalls, it has to be the HH. also remember a worn HH will not...

if you have good fuel pressure at the final filter that is all ok. you can flush the HH plunger by removing the center plug, turning engine so plunger is at lowest point, remove fuel supply line to HH, set throttle to max, and use clean air and fuel to push fuel and air down the plunger. this...

running out of fuel is EXTREMLY hard on the HH and can take one from working ok to dead in just a few seconds. at 2000 rpm the plunger is stroking 6000 times a minute and no fuel = no lube.

and this was after you let the air pressure build up? with a bad airpack, you will still have brakes, just no assist so hard to push.(unless the hyd piston in the airpack is rusted in place) the brake system is very simple, it sounds like your entire system should be checked and the offending...

ok, i wasn't sure about the LD block. the LDS nozzles are aimed at the holes in the piston head, the manual shows pressurizing the system to visualy check the aim.

there is only a single wire to the starter relay coil. just take it off.

i think you may hit a problem going from LD to LDS. does the LD block have aimed nozzels for the pistons? the LDS does.

using the older style gaskets would just be, well, foolish at the least. many people sell them, i have them for $80 which includes s&h see the classified section

this depends on the tap of course. there are several taps available for each size. i always use a tap and a die but also the correct size.

thanks, this is clearly BS from some dreamer or worse

too true. if you ever need them they are going to drop you like a hot rock. you might as well just drive it with no insurance, cause that is what you have.

forget about brakes, what are you going to use for an engine?? the multifuel will not even come close to enough power unless you plan to drive only downhill! plus for all the time and money you will be using you could just buy an OD kit.