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this 2nd gear was in a recent rebuilt by army trans. i threw it away.
the hardness of the gears is only about .060", once the dogs get chipped they would wear fast if the syncro was bad. may have been a repaired trans that the army mech just put old parts in. problem is that you never really...
maybe on an old worn shaft, i polish the shafts down to a neat fit for ease of assembly, but original specs are for .0012 tight fit which is really tight.
there have never been any shims involved with this trans, someone may have mistakenly used some for some unknown reason, but the tolorences...
the syncro hub is splined and on a inner hub that is keyed to the shaft, hence the syncro hub has to turn with the shaft. see above pics for 'dogs' that then lock the syncro to the gear, making the gear turn the shaft.
the rear brng on the top shaft is a .0012 press fit on the shaft so it is...
here is 2nd as you cannot really see this with the trans togeather. when you put it back togeather, beware that the syncro will go in backwards but will still not have 2nd, the offset part of the center hub goes to the rear. also use new 'snap ring' for 5th gear sleeve. it is not really a 'snap...
no, if you can stall the engine in 3rd, it cannot be the keys. it is very rare, but the dogs that engage 2nd must have worn and then broken off. if you remove the drive shaft to the transfer and remove the rear brng retainer and pull the brng off the rear of the main shaft ( top rear shaft ) you...
put it in 2nd on level paved surface and let the clutch out real easy, does it try to move? put it in 3rd and release the clutch pretty hard. does it stall the engine or act like 2nd does.
if this guy is a member here and if he is offended by any of this, i am sorry. the fact remains he is just stupid. the size of the truck is on the data plate on the dash. hard to get it that wrong. plus all the other stupid, completely wrong stuff, this does not help the people new to the hobby.
they do not have to be very tight. more than likely it is the plug in the center of the HH that is leaking. you would not always see a crack, but it is very high pressure. the fix for many people ends up being a new HH.
warren, i am curious about what you said regarding the front brakes. if the rear were applied, the front would be equally applied also. make sure the vent line from the air pack is not damaged or restricted. it runs up to just behind the air filter on the firewall. also the problem with the...
so it's just a generator running an 120 vac a/c unit and a resistance heater and if you need, a block heater. whan do you need this in a deuce?? i have a 20k fuel burning heater behind the shortened glove box, a/c run off the engine. if you need 120 ac, how much do you need? too bad the old onan...
it seems that using the loaded radius is more accurate, i don't really understand why, but that is what the michelin tire site gives. i have also read this several places.
the math is really quite simple:
rpm = (168 * mph * ratio ) / radius
mph = ( rpm * radius) / ( 168 * ratio)
tom, is there some reason they put the lower support for the column on the outside of the firewall? it is supposed to go on the inside. (unless something is in the way) the way it is now your steering wheel will be rather close to the dash.
tom
if you want to insure it in maryland with no restrictions, it is quite easy. put regular tags on it after you go thru state inspection. expect insurance to run $800 to $1000 a year. i did that with my unimog because it did not meet the age requirements.
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